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A SCIENTIFIC GUIDE 



TO 



PRACTICAL CUTTING 



EVERY STYLE OF GARMENT TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM. 



BY WILLIAM GLENOROSS, 

AcTiion OP "A GUIDE TO PRACTIC^M, CUTTING;" "A MANUAL, OR TllVE GUIDE ;" and op the 
" GUTTER'S MONTHLY JOURNAL, AND SEMI-ANNUAL REPORT OF FASHIONS." 



I]sr ON^E V^OLTJME, 



ILLUSTRATED BY DIAGRAMS OF NEARLY EVERY STYLE OP GARilENT THAT IS NOW 
WORN BY EITHER SEEN, YOUTH, OR CHILDREN : ALSO, LADIES' BASQLTNES 
AND HABITS BY ACTUAL MEASUREMENT, COMBINED WITH PRO- 
PORTIONS, BY THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A CENTRE POINT. , 



NK^A^ YORK: 

Published by WILLIAM GLENCROSS, 569 Broadway. 




181 



o 



b 

< 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in tlie year one tliousand eiglit hundred and seventy-three, by 

WILLLVil GLENCROSS, 

in the office of the Libraiian of Congress at Washington. 



"t 



^ 



K 



% 






0./^ \C)-Z3.^L rev'd 



PREFACE. 



TjrN introducing this, my tliircl work on 
^1 cutting, I do it witli renewed conll- 
■? deuce, looking at it from Reason's 
standpoint, its basis being establislied upon 
the immaculate principles of philosophy 
and common sense, which will at once be 
its best recommendation to all thinking 
minds, who have either studied or taken an 
interest in how to fit the human body in all 
its various forms, and also to give it that 
character for artistic beauty of style, and 
elegance in its appropriateness to the struc- 
ture to be suited, which is the ambition of 
all artistic cutters. 

There are many cutters, or students of 
the art, who have not as yet come up to 
the high standard here referred to, having 
paid but little attention to the cause-and- 
effect principles of the art, a strict observ- 
ance of which can alone cultivate and im- 
prove the mind in that which it is essential 
for it to know, and fully understand the 
various structures of the human form, and 
how best to carry out the results of those 
ideas necessary for its requirements. It is 
believed that the student in taking a strict 
observation of the diagrams laid down in 
this work — the great variety and artistic 
beauty of their execution — and reading the 
instructive ideas explanatory of the same, 
will have his mind sufficient!}^ exercised on 
scientific problems with a disposition to re- 
duce the same to practice, as to be the initia- 
tory step to study and future progress. The 
present work is based on the same princi- 
ples as our late work, the "Manual," whicli 
run out over a year ago, after having gone 



through three editions ; and at no time 
since it was first published has there been 
so great a demand for the work as during 
the past year. Perhaps no work of the 
kind, or the principles contained in it, 
have ever met with such universal ap- 
probation. We believe it has reached 
and been practiced in almost all parts- of 
the civilized world. We have been called 
upon in one week to send a system to Aus- 
tralia on the one hand, and to the Hawaiian 
Islands on the other. 

It would be a work of supererogation 
for me to go into details respecting the 
merits of the late work. In fact, wher- 
ever it or its representatives has gone, its 
superiority has been duly acknowledged 
and appreciated. Tosuch an extent has this 
been the case, that in certain cities of the 
West, we have been credibly informed by re- 
spectable merchant tailors, that they would 
not emjiloy a cutter who did not use our 
system. We are in possession of hundreds 
of letters at this office eulogizing the prin- 
ciples of the work, and tendering their 
thanks to the author for their remarkable 
success. I could mention the names of 
thousands who are now in position, in- 
fluence and wealth through fhe instru- 
mentality of the ideas inculcated in the 
aforesaid work and their author. The de- 
mand for the work has rendered it neces- 
sary that I should set ray head to work 
again ; and I can assure ray readers that it is 
no small business in the line of brain work. 
And I think I will not be accused by any 
of iny readers, with the present work 



[Preface. 



before them, as being guilty of egotism, 
when I say that I have felt myself equal 
to the task. 

As I have alread}' stated, the present 
system is based on the same principles as 
the "Manual," namely — the anatomical 
proportions of the human form, by actual 
measurement, combined with proportions 
— the measures producing the proportions. 
la the old work, many of its principles 
were correct in themselves and incapable 
of being improved upon ; while in the new 
work, actual measurement, through the in- 
strumentality of the centre point in estab- 
lishing the point of shoulder, becomes a 
demonstrated reality. This point being 
truly established, all other measures or 
points being equal, the cutting of a gar- 
ment to fit the various shapes of the hu- 
man form, remains no longer one of doubt- 
ful import, but becomes at once one of 
stern reality. No mantua- making ar- 
rangements of trying on are necessary in 
this system. But methinks I hear the fol- 
lowing query : Do you mean to convey 
the idea, if the principles of your system 
are correct, that all men can be taught to 
measure correctly? I certainly believe 
that any man with ordinary capacity can 
be taught to measure correctly through a 
proper course of drilling, subject to the 
same mistakes that occur in other mechani- 
cal operations. But perhaps some will 
say : Will actual measurement, such as 
yours, produce as good style of garments 
as some of the other systems ? My answer 
is, looking at the query from reason and 
practical observation, it will produce bet- 
ter styles, for the following reasons : A coat 
must fit in order to have good style ; a man 
nnist be a draughtsman in order to cultivate 
and produce styles. The mantua-making, 
trying-on system completely neutralizes all 
style, as it destroys all taste for drafting 
and all confidence, depending entirely on a 
third party for whatever success it may 



have, namely — the bushelman. But all 
bushelmen are not artists. In answer to 
all such queries, I would hereby state — 
show me any principle, either in science 
or in philosophy, which is correct in the 
abstract, and I will show j'ou one that can 
be reduced to practice. But I do not 
mean to say by the foregoing that all men 
have the requirements to become artists ; 
on the contrary, I positively do know 
that there are a great many engaged in 
the profession who must always be failures, 
Nature never having designed them for 
any such purpose, and had they studied 
their organism and its tendencies, might 
have been useful ornaments in some other 
sphere of action. But we would hereby 
positively assert, that through the instru- 
mentality of our system, we have taken 
some individuals of very moderate capacity 
and made tolerably good cutters of them. 
xVs an illustration of this fact, I would re- 
fer to two cutters who learned at my office 
more than six years ago, one of whom is 
cutting in one of the first houses in New 
Jersey at the present time, and has filled 
some first-class positions ; the other, when 
last heard from, was in Milwaukee. Two 
different foremen of mine, at different pe- 
riods, wanted me to discharge these young 
men, after they had been practising for 
three or four weeks, stating to me that they 
could never make cutters of them. My 
answer in both cases was that there was 
no such letter in my alphabet as " could 
not."' I took hold of the Milwaukee pupil 
myself, and I made him the best cutter 
out of a class of sixteen, which was then 
learning at my office. This statement will 
idcntifj' the individual to manj'. 

In our new system we have made a 
change in our measuring square, so as to 
make it conform to the requirements of our 
new principle of taking the centre point, 
and by means of which we think they will be 
enabled to take llie measures with greater 



Preface.] 



accuracy. As there are many in the trade 
who have a prejudice against using any in- 
strument for measuring, we have provided 
for tliis iu two different ways, which will 
appear under the head of "Measurement." 

To those who have had our former work 
we would say — you should undoubtedly 
have the new, coming, as it does, bright- 
ened up with new ideas and illustrating 
some of the old ones in a more practical 
form, clothed in a new dress and illus- 
trated by some of the most beautiful dia- 
grams that have ever been presented to 
the trade in any work. All the different 
styles of garments are laid down according 
to the newest fashion ; and all the newest 
stjies of cloaks are laid down in a neat 
and practical form. 

We present some very jjractical illustra- 
tions of corpulent and stooping men, with il- 
lustrations of military and naval uniforms ; 
and also with most of the newest stjdes of 
children's costumes, and a very neat illus- 
tration of the neweststjdes of ladies^ basques 
and habits. To those who have learned 
with us, this work will be of much value 
and interest ; and to all, as a work of re- 
ference, when they are called upon oc- 



casionally to cut garments, not in the 
ordinary line of cutting, but which can 
be found in this work, where everj'thing is 
laid down so as to meet the reciuirements 
of the trade. It is believed no other 
work of the kind ever published contained 
such an amount of useful information ; and I 
might add hero, for the very best of reasons 
— their authors never had any practical ex- 
perience on the subject. 

Iu conclusion I have to say that the 
present work has cost me a great deal of 
care and study in the transferring of my 
ideas through its lettered pages. The 
principles laid down in this work are not 
of doubtful import, but are the production 
of one of the first tailors of the age ; and 
as he feels positive that this is his last work 
on cutting, as his future in this life must 
necessarily be short, he feels a strong con- 
viction, which is to him a source of gratifi- 
cation, that the principles as embodied in 
this work will live long after him, and that 
it will be the means of producing wealth 
to thousands yet in the unforseen future as 
it has in the past, is not only the firm con- 
viction but also the hope of the author, 
William Glexcross. 



New York, September, 1873. 



ON MEASUREMENT. 



HOW TO MEASURE. 



^JlfN the outset, we would solicit the 

a I ' 

3;|_ earnest attention of the reader or 

student to the proper way of taking 
the measure as laid down and illustrated in 
this work, for the very obvious reason, if 
your measure is taken correctly, you will 
be ver}' likely to cut correctly'. And in 
order to attain this very desirable result, 
we would suggest the following plan, par- 
ticularly to tailors in the rural districts, 
where they very frequently have customers 
come to be measured for a coat in their 
shirt sleeves, and not unfrequently with 
very bad fitting coats on them to measure 
over, as also these suggestions may be 
useful to a great many cutters : — I would 
suggest, to all whom it may concern, to 
have four or five skeleton jackets, made of 
some heavy cheaj:) goods, to extend a little 
below the waist, and to button up the front 
— the cut of said jackets to be of that char- 
acter which will fit the greatest number of 
customers — and when a customer comes 
along, put ou one of your jackets for the 
purpose of measuring over. 

Our advice is never to measure over a 
sack coat if it can be avoided ; the sack 
coat requiring greater length of back from 
the bottom of sye up, would be veiy likel}^ 
to show that extra length in the measure, 
and when applied to another coat cut 
through the waist, would produce too much 
length of back ; and if applied to a sack 
coat, the extra allowance should not bo 
given in the draft. 

With these preliminaries, we will now 
call the reader's attention to Figure 1. On 
measurement, draw the coat j'ou are about 
to measure over, into its proper ])lace on 
the customer ; have it buttoned ; examine 
the coat which you are about to meas- 
ure over, whether it is too low in the sye 



or too high, because, if care is not taken, 
you will be likely to fall into the same 
error ; then feel the socket-bone or nape of 
neck, as some call it, and if the collar seam 
is not right on it, then mark it with a piece 
of chalk ; then take the measuring square 
with the solid elbow in your right hand, 
and cause your customer to raise his arms, 
and place the elbows of square close up 
under arm ; then let the arms fall down 
to their natural position, and as the}' fall 
down draw the two elbows of square close 
together on the body ; then step to the 
right side of your customer and take a side 
view, and see whether the elbows are 
placed right straight across the body or 
not ; then put a mark on centre of back on 
the upper side of square, and establish the 
point of bottom of sj-e on back, then apply 
the square at natui;al waist ; at hollow of 
waist, just above the hip-bone, draw the 
elbows close together ; let it be straight 
across the body, and make a mark on centre 
of back underneath. In order to have uni- 
formity in our measure, we will first pro- 
ceed with Figure 3, or diameter cross- 
wise. Take the short arm of 3'our square in 
your left hand with the fore finger resting 
on elbow as represented ou the figure ; 
raise your customer's left arm with your 
right ; place the square underneath as rep- 
resented, with the solid elbow close up to 
the front of sye, then bring the slide close 
up behind the arm, press them closely to- 
gether but not tight, then take the square 
olT and examine the side that was next to 
the bod}', and count the distance between 
the elbows, say 41 or diameter crosswise, 
with I for making up or 42, the half of 
which is the centre line. 

We will now call the reader's attention 
to Figure 2, or diameter lengthwise. Take 



On Measurement.] 



measuring square in your left hand, just 
below tlie solid elbow ; then raise your cus- 
tomer's left arm with3-our right and put the 
solid elbow close up under the arm ; then 
let your customer's arm fall straight over 
it ; let the square be flat to the body and 
close up to the front of arm, the square 
being straight up and down ; then take 
your right hand and fetch the slide down 
on shoulder ; let your left hand be holding 
the square flat to the body at the same time, 
so as to avoid getting it too far in toward the 
neck or too much out ; then look between 
the two elbows and count the numbers, say 
51 inches, or diameter lengthwise ; j'our 
diameter crosswise being 4i, mark one half 
of that Inside of elbow, at top of shoulder, 
with g of inch added, which would be 2i or 
centre point, and also make a chalk mark 
inside of elbow, at same point. 

We will now proceed to Figure 4, con- 
sisting of shoulder, sye, and elliptic meas- 
ures. Take the long arm of square in your 
hand, a little below the elbows, so as to 
enable you to command it with more ease ; 
raise your customer's left arm with your 
right, and place the elbow of square close 
up under arm, and let your customer's arm 
fall down over it ; let the arm of square be 
flat to the body, and close up to the front of 
sye ; then stroke down the shoulder of your 
customer and loosen your hand from the 
front of sye, so that the shoulder may be in 
a natural and easy position ; then apply 
your measure up to the socket-bone; see that 
the pivot of measure is properly turned 
by giving it a jerk, and the measure ap- 
plied in a straight direction ; this we call 
shoulder measure ; we will suppose it 121 
inches ; then apjDly your measure right over 
shoulder-blade to the centre of back at bot- 
tom of sye, (see Figure 1); be sure the 
measure is drawn in a straight direction ; 
this we call blade measure, and suppose it 
to be 17 inches ; we will then withdraw 
the square, and draw the inch measure 



under the arm, and throw it over the right 
shoulder, so as to prevent its twisting, then 
raise the arm and place the square in the 
same 230sition again, flat to the body and 
close up to the front of sye ; then draw the 
measure to the centre of back, under arm, 
give the measure a gentle pull and then let 
it rebound back to a breathing point, and 
touch centre of back, no matter how hollow 
the back may be ; this we call sye meas- 
ure, say II3 inches ; then draw the pivot in 
the direction and apply measure to natural 
waist ; draw your hand right along the body 
in a straight direction, if there are wrinkles 
in the coat, gather them up ; give the meas- 
ure a little pull and let it rebound back, and 
touch natural waist ; this we call elliptic 
measure and suppose it to be 121 inches, 
(see Figure 8). We take another proof 
measure for corpulent men onlj', as re- 
presented by 3 waist on Figure 8 ; when 
we are taking the natural waist and marking 
underneath on centre of back, we also put 
a mark underneath at side ; and when we 
are taking shoulder measure with the square 
straight up and down, we put a mark inside 
of square, at side, on natural waist, thus 
producing a cross ; we then apply a meas- 
sure from the cross to the natural waist, 
and use it in connection with the elliptic, in 
the case of corpulent men, so that the one 
can be a corrective of the other ; whatever 
difference exists we generally divide it. 
The measure taken from front of sye, around 
behind to ITa at top of back, on Figure 8, 
may be used as a corrective; then place 
measuring square on as the upper measure, 
on Figure 1^ with the elbows of square rest- 
ing on Figure 8, or centre point, as repre- 
sented on Figure 8, let it be straight across, 
mark inside toward the neck, and then 
measure the distance from back seam to cen- 
tre point, which we will suppose 8 inches, 
which is the balancing point for shoulders 
of forepart. 

We will now finish with the inch measure. 



[Osr Measurement. 



Applj' measure from socket-bone at neck 
to proof-centre, say 2 inches, then to bottom 
of sye 83 inches ; natural waist, 17? ; full 
length, 19 ; skirt 34 ; next, length of sleeve 
from centre of back to elbow and sleeve 
hand ; next, width of elbow and hand at the 
most prominent part, according to fashion ; 
next, breast and waist measure, as repre- 
sented on Figure 6 ; which completes the 
coat measure with the measuring-square. 
We will now describe how the system may 
be used, and the measures taken without 
the measuring-square, in the following man- 
ner : Take the plain square, the short arm 
in your right hand, place it on the point of 
shoulder, touching 'the extreme point of 
shoulder-bone with your finger, as repre- 
sented on Figure 1, and then lay elbow on 
said point, and let the long arm run straight 
across to the other shoulder, and make a 
mark underneath on centre of back ; then 
take the square and raise the arm of your 
customer, and put the long arm of square 
straight across under arm, make a mark 
on coat both in front of sj^e and behind on 
top of square ; then lay the straight edge 
of square close up to the front of sye, and 
make a cross mark at the front of bottom ; 
then let the edge of square range with the 
back seam of coat, with the top of short 
arm ranging with the chalk mark at back 
sye ; then put a mark on top of square at 
centre of back. You will, through this 
means, have established the depth of 
shoulder, and also the bottom of sye on back 
and front ; also a point at the bottom of 
sye in front, from which to take the shoulder 
measure and blade, and also the sye mea- 
sure and elliptic, which should be taken 
with an inch tape from the cross mark in 
front of sye to the various points in the 
manner we have hitherto described. The 
natural waist can be marked by laying the 
short arm of a common square in the hol- 
low of waist, with tlie long arm running 
straight across, and making a marlc on 



))ackseam in the same way I have des- 
cribed. In measuring by this plan care 
should be taken that the coat measured 
over should not be moved from its first 
position. The depth of sye and natural 
waist may be also very correctly taken 
with the inch measure b}^ the plan repre- 
sented on Figure 5 : Take the point of inch 
measure in your left hand as represented, 
draw the measure over right shoulder, 
around the arm, along underneath, and 
across the back, under the left arm, around 
the sye and over slioulder, and then place 
both ends of the measure in one hand, and 
draw the measure tight, and place it straight 
across the back with the other. The 
natural waist maj^ be marked by putting 
the inch measure straight around the hol- 
low of waist, and holding the measure 
tight in front, while you mark it with the 
other hand underneath ; behind, the di- 
ameter lengthwise and crosswise may be 
used in tlie following manner : By using 5 k 
graduated inches for the length, and 4? 
for the width. 

In extreme high or low shoulders or flat 
bodies, this plan would not work so well as 
taken with the measuring square. Fig. 7 is 
an illustration of our new measuring square. 

Figure 8 is a diagram exhibiting the ap- 
plication of the measurement, and also a 
centre line all the way through from the 
middle of diameter on back to the centre 
line, which runs to the centre of diameter 
on back while in a joining position to the 
shoulder ; also the centre point and proof- 
centre. This can only occur, however, in 
certain proportions. The measure taken 
from front of sye away to 17^ at top of 
back is one we never use, but some of our 
friends use it as a corrective in case they 
should take the depth of sye on back too 
long or too short ; b}'- the application of 
this measure they can remedj^ it, but if the 
depth of sye on back is taken correctly it 
is entirelv useless. 



Actual MeasiireT7iejit Pltite -I. 




Description of Plate I. 



J^IGURE 1 is the doi)th of syc on back, 
taken with the measuring square, and 
also natural waist, taken at the hol- 
low of waist above the loin bones ; and 
also the blade measure, taken over the 
shoulder to centre of back at depth of syc 
on back, the square being placed in the 
same manner as on Figure 4. 

Figure 2 is the diameter lengthwise. 
The diameter crosswise, as represented on 
Figure 3, should be taken before Figure 2, 
iu order to know the diameter crosswise, 
so as to be enabled to mark the centre point 
on ligure 2 by the slide on top of shoulder, 
which is half the diameter crosswise. 

Figure 4. — On this figure we have re- 
presented shoulder measure, taken from the 
bottom front of sye to socket bone, and 
sye measure from same point under arm to 
centre of back ; and also the eliptic from 
the same point to natural waist. 



Figure 5. — On this figure is represented 
the way of taking the depth of sye and 
natural waist with the inch measure, l»y 
drawing the measure close up under arms 
and drawing it up over the shoulder, and 
after adjusting it in its proper place to hold 
it, as represented, and mark on the top at 
back seam. The natural waist may be 
taken by drawing the inch measure close 
above the loin bone. 

Figure 6 represents breast and waist 
measure taken over the vest. 

Figure 7 is the measuring square. 

Figure 8 represents the system with the 
application of the measures, and exhi])itiug 
a centre all through from centre of diame- 
ter to centre with the centre point at 8. 
The proof measure at natural waist is onl3' 
used in the case of corpulent men. 



Description of Plates 11. and III. 



nOAV TO PRAUGHT FROCK COAT. 



'fc 



would claim the reader's most 
dent attention while we proceed 
' ' to draught a coat hj the system 
according to measure ; and in doing so, we 
will select the measure laid down on plate 
III., which wcwill call the Bowband Coat, 
it being the first coat on which we demon- 
strated our new principle of the proof- 
centre or centre point. The diagrams on 
both plates are those of a Frock Coat. 
Plate n. represents that which we call the 
fair-proportioned type, the whole body of 
the coat being laid down in a solid piece 
with its accompanying appurtenances, to 
show the application of the measures, and 
in laying on the back to those points in 
which it stands connected, and exhibiting 
to view the manner of forming the fore- 
part. In our explanation we shall refer to 
either plate as the circumstances of the 
case may require. The following is the 
measure: Diameter crosswise, 42 ; length- 
wise, 5i ; shoulder, 121 ; blade, 171 ; syc 
measure, 12i ; eliptic, .14 ; centre point, 
3 ; proof-centre, 2 ; depth of sye, 82 ; 
length of natural waist, 17? ; full length, 
19 ; skirt, 34 ; length of sleeve to elbow, 
20J ; full length, 32A ; width at elbow, 8| ; 
sleeve hand, 5h. We will now proceed to 
draught back according to the measure : 
Draw construction line from to 34 ; lay 
elbow of square on at 0, with the long arm 
inside from construction line I3 graduated 
inches, at natural waist, or 17? ; then draw 
back line from to 19, or full length, and 
then square in top ; mark down on back 
line 2 inches or proof-centre, and 8h or 



depth of sye according to measure ; square 
these lines across by back line and the 
waist by construction line ; then lay j'our 
square on back line, your diameter length- 
wise 5?, resting on 83 and elbow on 31, 
and draw line diameter lengthwise ; estab- 
lish centre of diameter by dividing the 5k 
or 21, and mark 2 inch below centre and 
establish line bottom of pitch at6i ; then 
mark width of pitch from bottom 2 gradu- 
ated inches, as from G|- to 4?, and square 
those lines across ; 'then mark on your line 
centre point 8 inches, according to measure. 
We will now proceed to the bottom line of 
pitch, and find width of pitch by laying the 
elbow of square on at 121 or S3'e measure, 
with 121 resting on back line ; then deduct 
3-our diameter crosswise, oil, which is 43, 
leaving the width of bottom of pitch 7J : 
1 or s may be added to top of pitch, as at 
8s, which should be regulated according to 
the fashionable width of shoulder ; for 
width of top mark 2h graduated inches, 
s(j(uare it up and mark 3 inch for spring — 
in stooped men it should not be more than 
1 ; mark width of back at waist II inches, 
and at bottom 33 : draw line from 3 to 8h, 
and from 71 to ] 3, and form top of back 
from to 3 ; shoulder from 3 to 8s ; pitch 
from 8g to 71 ; sidcseam from 71 by 31 : 
skirt as model to 33. 

How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 4. 
— Draw construction line from to 223 
square in top ; mark down from at top 
to find bottom of syc, your shoulder 
measure with the width of top of back in- 
cluded, with 3 inch added for shoulder and 



MEASURE 

Diaiiietex Leii<5thwise 5$ 

CTOSs-vnse_ 4i 

Shoulder \2i 

Blade Vi 

Sye ^ 111 

Depth of Sye ojil^act: 8f 

Waist 17fibl9 

Proof Centre.-.- — S&r7l 

Breast:.^_-_ J-* 

Waist 16 



r/n/r ? '"^ 



A\, 




hate 3^(^ 




PlATKS ir. AND HI.] 



11 



backscam, say 23 for top of buck, and lOJ 
would make lol, liie slionldcr measure 
being 121, and one half inch for making 
up, would amount to 131, or lOJ to bottom 
of 83'e ; then take your back, laying the 
bottom of sye of back on (hat of forepart 
backseani on construction line, and nnii'k 
the line bottom of pitch b}' that of back, 
also the line diameter lengthwise ; then run 
up the top of l)ack to the top of forepart 
to (), and mark the depth of shoulder at Si 
l)y that of back ; then square these lines 
across ; and we will es(al)lish our widths 
b}' marking on top, from 0, the sj'e mea- 
sure, or 121 inches (what we mean by the 
sye measure is the measure taken from 
front of sye, under arm, to centre of back) ; 
we will now divide the 121 in two parts, 
making Gj the half; we also add 2 inch 
f(.)r seams, makiiii;- Oi. this being the part 
that front of sye comes to, the other half 
to 121 being only given to produce propor- 
tion in draughting, as, by casting a glance 
on the diagram in plate II., the sye measure 
is occupied by the back, in one part, and 
the other jiart with the 3 incli is occupied 
with the diameter crosswise, which is de- 
ducted from the sye measure to 71, illus- 
trated on Figure 2, and nnirked diameter 
crosswise. We will now proceed with 
Figure 4 by drawing a line from 121 to 
bottom, on the square, also the line from 
6g front of sye. We will now come to the 
line of pitch, and mark from the line at 
front of sye our diameter crosswise lA, 
with 2 inch added for seams, to If, which 
is the top point of sidcseam ; we will then 
measure the length of our sideseam from 
this point by applying the sidcseam of back 
down construction line, as to 201 and 22^, 
then square these lines across. The length 
of sideseam can be also obtained in the 
manner shown on Figures 2 and 3, plate 
II. b}^ sweeping from 31 to h. at natural 
waist b}' 71 at jjoint of sideseam. and the 
l)ottom line in the same way ; the [)i)iiil of 



sideseam being established 11 inches in 
from construction line, we mark 2 the dis- 
tance to said line, for the purpose of form- 
ing sideseam, and we mark h inch in at 
natural waist, as represented at V on j)late 
If; we will tl;en lay on back, as represented 
by Figure 5, dotted line, with the side 
touching at 2 inch in at natural waist, and 
h the distance from Ig at sidepoint ; then 
appl}' your eliptic mea.sure from 6g, at tiie 
bottom of sye, to 14 at natural waist, and 
move sideseam in or out according to mea- 
sure ; then mai'k dotted line all the way by 
the side of back, and form the sideseam 
according to model. We will now mark 
from G3 at the bottom of sj'C 1 the sye 
measure, being 3 iijchcs each way along the 
bottom and front, as a guide for crossing 
lines in tlie forming of sye ; we will also 
es(abii.--h our centre line b}' marking 2.7 
inches from front of s^-e on line diameter 
lengthwise, and is one-half the diameter 
crosswise, wilh the ■> inch added for scams ; 
then take your back and place the line 
proof-centre at 8 on centre line, wilh the 
top of back touching the line of ibrej»art 
at P ; the top of back pitch ma_y also 
touch the line dc|)lh of [-inndder on fore- 
part, (see Figure 1); then apply your blade 
measure to 81, which is 171 inches, as re- 
presented on plate II. ; this part t>f the 
coat being all on the bias, will stretch a 
little, I'of inch may be added for making 
up, and when the shoulder is raised with 
wadding, 2 to 1 of inch may be added ac- 
cording (0 the requirements of raising ; 
the shoulder should be changed up or down 
at this point to correspond wilh the blade 
nicasure, if it is found necessary, then 
form shoulder by rounding it ofl' 2 inch 
from centre line to point of shoulder (see 
model) ; then Iln'm your sye by touching 
the ;') on front and bottom, and about 1 of 
inch in I'rout of line, and S of inch each 
way in crossing around the bottoin corner, 
ami 1 below the bottom line ; lay on back 



12 



[Plates II. and III. 



as Figure 5, find apply waist measure along 
the natural waist to (he front at 10 or 17 
inches ; add li inches foi- making up, and 
form fi'ont of breast from lih by IG.lCi, 161 
to 102 at bottom, and take out V of h inch, 
unless in cases of large waists, when no V 
should be taken out, and no allowance given 
for making up, as it will always stretch 
sufficient for that purpose ; in small waists 
the V should be enlarged in proportion, 
and not rounded off in front to its seeming 
requirement by the measure, which will 
prevent the breast from rising up in front 
when buttoned ; apply 2 breast measure 
from line in Front of sye to IG in front, 
and also to 1 12 at top, and form breast by 
those points ; then draw line from I2 down 
from Gi to 142, and form neckgorge as model. 
Mark along the bottom from construction 
line Gh inches, and draw a line from bot- 
tom of sye to Gg ; mark up said line I2 
from bottom, then up from I2, 2 inches, 
and place the natural waist in ils proper 
j)lace; then form bottom of si<lcbody by 
the I2, giving it a gentle curve, an.l form 
the front by drawing the line by I2 to 1 
up from bottom ; then hollow the sidebody, 
as model, by crossing at the natural waist, 
and giving about « of inch of spring on 
cither side at l)i>llom ; take out V of 2 
inch from lOi to 11 wiicn the arms are 
well forward, which indicates a narrow 



chest ; 2 breast is too much to add in front 
at IG; in such cases apply your breast 
measure with your back in a joining posi- 
tion, as represented on Figures 2 and 3, 
plate II., with 1 the breast measure ad- 
ded, or 3 graduated inches, which Avill 
regulate the front of breast. In establish- 
ing the front of sye the placing it forward 
2 inch for seams is merely accommodating 
as the measures work backwards from this 
part, and I of inch added to diameter 
crosswise will generall}'^ be enough for 
making up. 

How TO DjlAUGHT SkIRT, FiGURE 1. — 

Draw construction line from to 18, square 
in top; mark down construction line from 
0, 21, 71 ; then apply measure from 21 to 
18, applying exact measure of waist of 
forepart, with bottom of lapel included, and 
1 inch added for fullness ; then draw a 
line from 21 to 18, or waist of skirt ; Ihen 
draw si)ring of skirt by laying elbow of 
square at 18 with arm resting at 71 ; then 
form top of skirt by hollowing 1 of an inch 
as niiidel ; then lay on sidebod\' in a join- 
ing position to skirt at 18, and form your 
spring of skirt to arrange Avith sideseam 82 
inches up ; mark length of skirt by that of 
back ; form bottom of skirt to correspond 
with hollow at lop, the front being half- an 
inch shorter than behind. 



Plate ^ ^^} 




Description of Plate IV. 



jlj\N plale IV. we liave two difTereut 
'%IJ' styles of coats ; the one n, dress coat 
* and tlie other a single-breasted frock. 
As we have shown In onr measurement the 
manner of taking the measure without the 
use of the measuring square, the reader can 
use either the common square or inch tape, 
as he pleases, according to instructions on 
measurement. "We now propose showing 
the way to draught the dress coat b\' the 
measure taken without the square, 0:1 gen- 
eral principles not to be i\pplicd to this 
coat exclusively, but for the use of whom it 
may concern. Tiio following is the meas- 
ure : diameter crosswise, 41 ; lengthwise, 
51 ; -shoulder measure, 121 ; blade, 17 ; 
syc measure, Hi; eliptic, 12-5; depth ofsye, 
82 ; length of natural waist, 16 J ; full 
length, 18; skirt, 34; breast, IS; waist, 
10. By a reference to the plan of measure- 
ment it will be seen that you have got all 
the essential measui'cs for cutting your coat, 
length behind and front, (he blade and 
eliptic measures, and also the widths, the 
most essential of which is the measure from 
front of syc to centre of back, which we 
call the sye measure. 111 inches; we will 
now divide the sye measure into its appro- 
priate parts, so that the reader may under- 
stand what he is doing: the width of back 
at bottom of pitch is half the sye measure 
and one-eighth, say 5s and 1 ;1 or T inches ; 
and in estal)lishiug tliL' front of sye from 
at construction line to (31 is half the syc 
measure and half inch for making up, and 
the diameter of svo from 01 to It is 41, 



with i added for scams making 4^, added 
to the 7, widdi of back, make lU inches 
thus allowing 1 inch lor making up, which 
goes to the diameter of s^'c. 

How TO Draught Back, Figure ;5. — 
Draw construction lino from to 34 ; then 
select your scale corresponding with the 
breast measure, then mark inside at natural 
waist]. 5 inches: tlien draw the back line 
from 01)y said 1-1 inches; then mark down 
from on back line, 82 inches by S(juare, 
natural waist, IG2 ; full length, 18 ; the 
lines of pitch, 41 and Gl by the scale, and 
S(iuare those lines Avhich form the pitch, by 
tiie back line, and also the line at top from 
to 22. Square in waist lines l)y con- 
.struction line ; then take scale and mark 
on top from 2h with 3 up for spring, top 
of pitch 8, bottom 7 : at natural waist 3s, 
at bottom 02 ; draw a straight line from 7 
to I2 at natural waist, and form back by 
tliosc points indicatcil and according to 
model. 

IIo\\' TO Draught Forki'art, Fujurk 2. 
— Draw construction line from to 21, 
and S(juare in top ; then mark down your 
shoulder measure, which was 121, fi'om 
at top (0 tOl at liottom of sye, which be- 
ing added to (he 22011 top of back will 
make 12i, thus allowing half an inch for 
seams ; then (alee vonr scale corresponding- 
wi(h (he Ijreast ifleasiire, and mark down 
from (o ;5 or depth of shoulder to point 
of shoulder 3, 4 ; then 8 or 21 inches up 



u 



[Plate IV. 



from lOi, same as back, and lOi and 21' 
or fall length ; then square those lines across 
from construction line ; then mark on top 
line 61 and 8k, or 2 graduated inches in all 
cases in front ofsye line, on line, depth of 
shoulder at front 131 on line of pitch from 
8, 11, 21, 15i, on line lOi, or bottom of sye, 
43, 61, 152, on line lOh. or natural waist 
T, 5, 51,10, lOi; then mark on bottom line 
6, Hi, 141, I the distance from 11, which 
is point of sideseam, and bottom of back 
pitch to 21 is length of sideseam, and should 
1)0 carefully measured by the side of back ; 
llien lay your back on in a joining posiliou, 
Willi 31 at natural waist of back, resting 
on 1 of forepart, with T of back resting 
half way between 8 and 11 at top of side- 
seam ; then apply your eliptic measure, 
witli the inch tape, from 61 to I2 on back, 
and move it in or out to correspond with 
the eliptic measure: then form your side- 
seam as model. Then lay your top of back 
at A, resting on shoulder of forepart at 81, 
which should be two inches in front of line 
of sve, and let the point of back 8 rest 
half an inch above the line running from 4 
on line of shoulder. Then apiily your 
blade measure, which is 17, and change 
the point to coiUbrm with this measure. 
The proof measure from socket bone to the 
same place, may be applied here as a cor- 
rective, and then round your shoulder to 
correspond to the line ; then mark 21 
inches up the line from Gl at bottom of 
sye, and 21 outside along the bottom ; then 
form your sye from point of shoulder, cross- 
iim- llie line at 21, and about § of an inch 
inside, at bottom corner, crossing at 21 
ati-aiii to 11. Then mark down from 61, Ih 
inches, and from front of , sye to 151 inches, 
half the breast measure, then sweep from 
151 to 13i, by front of .sye ;draw line from 
Ih to 13s, and form neck gorge as model; 
then ajiply 'waist measure along natural 
waist, back included, which Vvill make 16i, 
allowing 1 i inches Wn- V and making uj). 



Then draw line from Ah under arm to 6 at 
bottom ; mark up from G, Ih inches; mark 
up from 141, 1 of an inch, and form spring 
of side bod}' and bottom as model. Then 
form round of breast from 13| by 151, 15^, 
141, at bottom. Takeout V from 10 to 
lOj, and form waist as model, which com- 
pletes the forepart. 

IIow TO Draught Duess Coat Skirt, 
Figure 1. — Draw construction line from 
to 17, mark down from 0, 9 graduated 
inches, square it out to I5, mark inside 
from at top 1, then place elbow of square 
on at 1, with arm touching at Ih, and draw 
liair line of top to 16, mark width of top 
of skirt 101, and bottom Gl, draw line from 
lOl to 61, and give it a curve of about I 
at centre, make the width of step 1 inch, 
and curve the top as model and the skirt 
at plait, from 1 to 9. Figures 6 and 7 is 
the lapel and coHar adapted to this coat, 
and are drafted by the scale from the line 
of consti-uctioii. 

Figures 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, are the dia- 
grams of a single-breasted frock coat, and 
is drafted to the' same measure as that of 
tlie dress coat, and tlic same sleeves and 
collar being adapted to either coat, and 
with the lapel. Figure 9 is adapted to frock 
coat on iilate III. This coat is draughted 
ill the same way as double-breasted frock 
coat, represented on plate Ilf, with the 
excci)tions of the measure being diifcrent, 
and the latter being single-breasjed, and 
which we will now proceed to describe the 
dilference in draughting the forepart. Fig- 
ure 4, from that of the double-breast, and 
as the difference chiefly consists in the 
lapel growing, too, our remarks will, therc- 
I'ore, be mostl}' confined to that ])oiiit. In 
applying the breast measure to the front 
of breast to where the lapel is added, it 
should have a redaction of h inch less than 
double-breast to lapel, and then add 21 
inches for lapel, oi- more or less nccording 
to fashion ; an addition is made at waist. 



Plate IV.] 



15 



iiichuliiig the addition allowed for V, of 1% 
inches. As the same skirt is adapted to 
either the single or double-breast, with the 
exception that it wonld require to be short- 
ened one inch for single-breast, for further 
explanation, see Figure 1, plate ;lrd. 

How TO Draugut Sleeve, Ficuhe 5. — 
Draw construction line from to 253, 
square in top, the width of back at pitcli 
being 7, lay 7 on at 0, and mark distance 
to elbow at loi or 2O5 inches, the measure 
being 20, and 2 inch for seams, and (nil 
length to 252, making o2h, the 3 inch be- 
ing for seams. The distance from to 3 
on sleeve is same as from 8 to lOJ on fore- 
part, with I the distance from 7 to 8 on 
back, amounting to ?>k, we have placed it 
at 3, which it \rould be when joined, or in 
other words, the same distance from mid- 
dle of back pitch, where the back arm seam 
of sleeve joins to bottom of sye at 10?, then 
square those lines across, then measure 
around the sye of your forepart back pitch. 



included, say IG2, and mark the i to 8h, we 
have given it k of inch more for forming 
at forearm, then draw line on the square 
or forearm, from 82 to 8.^ at bottom, then 
draw line from to 82, say 9 inches, the 
half of which is 42 as marked, then draw 
the line from 4^ to 3, which is one- third 
the distance from to 82, then divide the 
distance from 42 to and 82 respectivcl}-, 
which is 2-2, and square up the lines to 2 
which is also 22, then sweep from to 82 
by 2-2, and straighten curve a little in 
front, then sweep from 252 to 82 by 0, lay 
elbow of square on at elbow,or 132, with arm 
2 inch inside from 252, and draw line to 1, 
then mark width of bottom from 82 to 
51, form forearm from 82 to 82 by I, mark 
outside from ISi-l, and finish upper side as 
model, from by I to 51 ; mark your un- 
derside from 82 to 1 inch inside from 0, or 
2 the measure of s}' e, and form underside 
as model. The principle of drafting this 
sleeve is applicable to any of the coats. 



Description of Plate V. 



#N plate V, we have llu-ee different 
stj'les of coats represented, all of 
■\vliicli are very fashionable at the 
present time, the measures are nearly the 
same, with the exception of the length of 
waist and skirt, the back, Fig-ure o, is suit- 
ed to the forepart. Figures 5 and 8, which 
represent a single and double-breasted 
walking coat with pointed lapel, the skirts 
2 and 4,^re either of them adapted to fore- 
part. Figure 8 ; only the skirt 4 would re- 
quire an additional length of 1 inch to suit 
the back ; on Figure 1 and 9 are the dia- 
grams of a walking coat of the open V form 
of breast, the step at front being gently 
curved, the bottom of skirt is square, but 
should also be curved when the step at 
front of collar is; these coats are all laid 
down with the numbers affixed, so that they 
may be drafted with the scale for cutting 
patterns as well as by the application of the 
system throngh the measures. As we have 
already shown the way of drafting by the 
measures, on plate 11 and III, it will not be 
necessary to go through the same routine 
again, but simply to confine our explana- 
tions to those points of the diagrams which 
represent the different points of style on 
each, peculiar to each garment different 
from those we have already described. 

Wc will now give the measure of Figures 
1 and 9 : diameter, crosswise, 4j ; length- 
wise, 51 ; shoulder, 122 ; blade, 17 ; in 
Figure 5 it is also 17 ; in Figure 8 it is 
I7i ; sye measure, 11^ ; eleptic, 123 ; in 
Figures 5 and 8, 121 ; depth of sye on 



back, 83 ; natural waist, IG2-I83 ; length 
of skirt 32 ; in Figure 5 and 8 the length 
of waist is at 17-19, and skirt B3, the 
proof centre on Figure 3 is 2-71, and on 
■Figure 9 11-71 ; breast 18, waist 16. We 
would here remark that it is not necessary 
that the proof centre should be left grow- 
ing outside of shoulders, as represented on 
diagram in cutting pattern, as when the 
back at this point is laid on. For fonning 
shoulders, the edge of square may be used 
in connection with the line to 71, or what- 
ever it may be, the diameter crosswise is 
4i, but i of an inch should be added for 
making up, and 3 that amount added to 
centre line at 21, or half diameter cross- 
wise ; the line marked 61 at front of sye is 
half sye measure, with i inch in front for 
seams ; to 11 3 is full sye measure, the 
point of shoulders at 81 is 2 inches in front 
of sye, and where the proof centre at 71 
touching centre line places it at this point; 
the amount given in front of breast in coats 
of this kind are in most cases regulated by 
fashion, and according to the size of the 
ball of breast, in this diagram we put it at 
2 inches more than half the breast measure 
from line front of sye, or 11 inches, making 
175 ; we then sweep from 171 to ISA at 
top, and then form the bottom part accord- 
ing to fashion, and the requirements of the 
customer, whether it should be well slanted 
off or moderately so, the bottom is at 17 
and would button on a man 15^ at waist. 
On Figure 5 the sye measure is the same, 
but the point of shoulder is 1 of inch fur- 



PUtte J*!^ 




Plate V.] 



17 



ther forward, being placed at 82 ; this fore- 
part is single breasted, and of tlie pointed 
lapel form ; in front of breast we give it 2 
breast less, ^ inch from line front of sye to 
15, and 2i inches more for width of lapel ; 
sweep from 15 to 13 2, take out fish of one 
inch to 142, give the lapel 2 inches width 
at top, and form j'our lapel and front ac- 
cording to model. Skirt, Figure 7, is well 
adapted to this forepart, and may be made 
square at bottom if required. 

On Figure 8 we have represented a very 
elegant style of double-breasted walking 
coat. It has the back in a joining position 
at shoulder, showing the establishment of 
point of shoulder by the proof centre, touch- 
ing centre point 7?, at centre line 2h ; the 



points of this forepart are in most respects 
like that of the other, the point of shoulder 
is h of inch further back, being at 81, or 2 
inches in front of sj^e ; in front of breast to 
lapel in double-breasted coats we give 3 
breast, (subject to contingencies referred to 
in the explanations to frock coat,) as to 15 1 
or 9 inches, and width of lapel at this part 
22 inches, and at top 21, at bottom 17 ; 
take out the fish according to model, and 
form the front by those points indicated. 
The collar, Figure 6, is adapted to either 
of these coats ; it is drafted by the scale. 
The roll of breast of coats can be made to 
roll more or less in conformity with the 
sewing, too, part of front of collar being 
well rounded or otherwise. 



Description of Plate VL 



jij^N Figures 1 and 7, wc have a very 
a|1# neat style of coat or jacket, of the 
register form ; this coat is admirably 
adapted for summer goods and for summer 
wear, being well rounded off, and stylish 
iu its general appearance. It is drafted 
to the following measure : diameter, cross- 
wise, 41 ; lengthwise, 6h ; shoulder meas- 
ure, 12t ; blade, IT? ; sye measure, llf ; 
eliptic, 121 ; proof centre, 11, and It ; 
depth of sye, 81 ; natural waist, 16|-18t ; 
length of skirt, 31 ; breast 18; waist IG. 
The difference in the back of this coat from 
those I have been explaining, consists in 
the back being a little longer from bottom 
of sye np, and hence better adapted to a 
man slightly stooping, the pitch also in both 
width and breadth is i of inch larger, the 
waist longer, and the skirt shorter. In the 
forepart the top of back is laid on with the 
proof centre, to establish the point of 
shoulders Avhich is at 81, the sye measure 
111 ; on front of breast of this coat there is 
only half breast, and 11 given, or 17 inches 
and 171 at bottom of sye, and at front oi' 
waist the skirt is well slanted and rounded 
off at bottom. In cutting the pattern lor 
this coat, either the sidebody or skirt 
would have to be pieced out, and care 
should be taken in doing so to give it its 
proper form ; the top of skirt with flap, is 
cut straight across, ranging with the waist 
lines ; the skirt should be cut to plait, so 
as to allow of A inch fullness ; it is thrown 
out^2 inches outside of construction line at 
bottom, but the spring of skirt should be 



ranged by laying on the bottom of side- 
bod}^ in a joining position to that of top of 
skirt, and ranging the spring of skirt with 
that of sidebody from about 3 inches up. 
Much care should be. taken in joining the 
sidebod}^ too, at this point, so as not to 
contract it in au}^ particular, and the lining 
should be held full over sidebody, but par- 
ticularly at the waist. 

On Figures 2, 3 and 4, we give the dia- 
grams of an English stjie of jacket, but to 
the great points of style of this coat or 
jacket. New York might lay special claims. 

This jacket is cut a good length at waist, 
but not to the extreme that some have 
been cut; it is 3^ inches below natural 
waist, and 3 iu width at this part, the lull 
length being 17 and 2O5, and 3O2 respec- 
tively ; the back from natural waist to the 
full length should be gently hollowed to 
range nearly straight with construction 
line ; a very little spring should also be 
given to side seam below natural waist. 
These garments being generally cut loose 
and graceful, we give 1 of inch more to 
width of back pitch, and deduct the same 
off point of side seam marked 11, and al- 
lowing only 1 of inch over diameter cross- 
wise for seams ; the collar of these jackets 
may be cut to roll them down to the natural 
waist, or given a short roll, according to 
the round of stand up of collar. In long 
waists the spring of sidebody should be 
gently hollowed, and made nearly to ar- 
range with the construction line ; the spring 
under arm, afcer crossing natural waist. 



Plate 6^!' 




Platk VI.] 



19 



should take its regular range of spring in 
proportion to the length of waist ; the sido- 
bod}' should be cut k of inch short, or i, 
and stretched from one inch above natural 
waist to the bottom, and care should be 
taken to have the linings put in full, both 
in length and breadth, over sidebody, par- 
ticularly below the natural waist, as tight 
linings would destroj' the whole ell"ect of 
the spring. As these jackets are cut to 
hang Hat in the short skirt, the spring of 
skirt is put at Ih inches. The points of 
construction of this coat are so nearly the 
same as the previous one, with the excep- 
tion of the length of waist and a wider roll 
of breast, that further comments will be 
deemed unnecessar}-. 

Figures 5 and 6 are the diagrams of a 
New York jacket ; as this jacket is of the 
sack species, although laid out on the frock 
principle, we will show the manner of 
drafting it by the measures. The following 
is the measure : diameter crosswise, -Ih ; 
lengthwise, 5 2 ; shoulder measure, 121 : 
blade, 17 ; sj'e measure, 111 ; eliptic, 13 ; 
depth of sye on back, 82 ; natural waist, 
17 ; full length, 21 ; skirt, 2Si 

How TO Draft Back, Figure 5. — Draw 
construction line from to 28i, mark in- 
side from construction line at natural waist 
la inches, draw back line from by li, 
sfjuare in top ; then mark depth of sye on 
back Si, and natural waist 17, full length 
21, lay on elbow of square at 3 and mark 
tliameter lengthwise by 3, then mark up 
from 8i-li to 61, or 3 inch less than coats 
cut through tiie waist, (as we give I of inch 
more length in coats of this kind than those 
wliichare cut through the waist, we place 
h inch of the extra material at bottom of 
back pitch as at 6|, and the otiier k at the 
top of sideseam at 2, which is i)laced 1 of 
inch higher, and h inch further in ; this 
is necessary to provide for the fact that 
when the iish under arm is taken out and 



the pieces joined together, it will throw out 
the sideseam h inch, and draw it down from 
top, to nearly the same amount, and hence 
we divide the extra material as we have 
herein described.) Then mark the line of 
shoulder at 4, so as to produce square 
shoulders, square these lines across the 
upper lines by back line, and the waist 
lines by construction line, then lay on your 
sye measure 111, on line bottom of pitch ; 
deduct your diameter crosswise, 4^ oft', 
leaving 71, the i of inch for making up. 
We add to back in this kind of coat, mak- 
ing it 7^, then add 1 inch extra to top of 
pitch to 83, mark on top 2^, and then up 
for spring 3, mark width of back at natural 
waist 31 to 41, and at bottom 5, form back 
from to 3, shoulder from 2 to 83, pitch 
from 83 to 75, side from 73 by 41, skirt as 
model ; the back below natural waist should 
have a gentle curve, as represented. 

How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 0. 
— Draw construction line from to 31, 
then mark down from your shoulder 
measure 101, to bottom of sye with width 
of top of back, 21 included, making 121, 
thus allowing 3 inch for making up, then 
mark your diameter lengthwise, at 4|, b}' 
back from bottom of sye, and depth of 
shoulder at 3, also by back, mark up from 
lOl to 71 at top of sidebody, A inch higher, 
as we have already described on back ; 31 
is the point where the blade measure places 
the point of shoulder, then square these 
lines across, mark on top from your s^'e 
measure II3 inches, but these jackets be- 
ing made of rough coating and should be 
cut easy, we have placed it at 111, then 
divide the sj'e measure with 3 inch in front 
for seams, to O3, and draw these lines down 
to bottom of sj'e, then mark on line of pitch 
from front of sye, your diameter crosswise. 
No allowance, is given, it being given on 
the back ; then mark the length of your 
sideseam bj^ back from 2 to natural waist. 



20 



[Plate VI. 



and full length to 223, scjuare these lines 
across. It is very difficult to take an elip- 
tic measure correctly in coats of this kind, 
but the sideseam should seldom come inside 
of construction line at bottom. The follow- 
ing is a good plan ; draw the line front of 
sye down to flap head, and take a measure 
over the loins, and apply one half the 
measure, as from Qk, with width of back 
included, with h inch added for seams, then 
lay on your back to form shoulder, centre 
point at 71, touching centre line, and point 
82 at the same time ; apply blade measure 
and form shoulder to conform with this 
measure, then lay your back on the bottom 
of pitch, resting I of inch outside from 2, 



and 4i of back resting at I of forepart, 
trace a line along the side of back, and 
form 3'our sideseam as model, turning it into 
a hollow at natural waist, and bottom of 
skirt as model ; then form your sye from 
point of shoulder to point of sideseam, in 
accordance with the principle laid down in 
frock, crossing the line 2 J inches each way 
from G3, and inside from corner, I, mark 
in front of sj^e h breast, with 11 or 2 inches 
added to 171, and sweep by front of sj'e 
from 171 to ISs, and form neck-gorge 
from 83 to 151, and front from 15 5 by 171- 
172-173-132, and bottom from ISh to 31, 
take out fish under arm, and Y at neck- 
gorge and finish forepart. 



Plate 7*1 



th 



ft>,f 



12'-' Hi 



/I 




4 


/ : 




- i 



2^4 



8^4 
B.18. 
VSM6. 



u/Zioia e*^, 




"v.- 



^■J 




v:'-^*^ 



2^8 




Description of Plate VII. 



tS til is plate is exclusively^ devoted to 
J surtout overcoats, and as the meas- 

^ ure and manner of drafting is the 
same as frock coat, we shall confine oar 
explanation to the extra allowance given 
to the measures in drafting these styles of 
garments, and in order to do so we will 
first give the measures and the allowances, 
and then show their application. . 

Diameter lengthwise, 5?, 3 inch added, 
51 ; crosswise, 4?, h added, 41 ; shoulder 
measure, 121, 1 added, 131 ; blade 17, I 
added, 171; sye measure, llh, 1 added, 
12i ; eliptic, 131, 1 added, 13^ ; depth of 
sye on back, 83, i inch added, 9, the i 
inch to be given in diameter lengthwise ; 
proof centre remains the same; centre point 
has 3 inch added ; natural waist remains 
the same, full length likewise, front of 
breast is h breast measure, the breast has 
thus 1 inch added in the above measure, 
the waist should have 1 inch for overcoat 
and I2 for linings, if wadded ; the sleeve 
should be cut to the measure. 

Description of back. Figure 1 : From 
on top to bottom of sye has h inch added, 
making 9, and the I inch is all given in the 
diameter, making 51, the depth of shoulder 
remaining the same as inside coat ; on bot- 
tom of pitch the S3'C measure has 1 inch 
added, making 12 3, one half being added 
to diameter crosswise, and the other to 
width of back. In sacks that are required 
verj' loose we add 1 to width of back at 
pitch ; the width of back at natural waist 
is about 3, or according to fashion. 



We will now describe forepart. Figure 
0. It will be perceived by looking at bot- 
tom of sye on forepart and width of top of 
back that the 3 inch has been added to 
shoulder measure, with A inch for making 
up, thus making 131 inches, also the 1 is 
added to the sye measure, making 123, and 
that the 12^ is divided, with 3 inch thrown 
to front, at Gl for seams, and also the di- 
ameter crosswise with the 2 inch added, 
making in all 41, establishes the point of 
sideseam at 2, the sideseam is also form- 
ed in the same manner as frock ; by the 
application of the eliptic measure, with 1 
or i of inch added, the centre line is pro- 
duced the same way, 3 diameter crosswise, 
with 3 the extra allowance also divided, 
and the shoulder is formed by the line, 
proof centre and the centre point at 81, 
being placed on centre line and applying 
the blade measure with the 1 added, or 171; 
for overcoat there should be added 33 at 
waist ; the neck gorge of overcoat requiring 
to be higher in consequence of being but- 
toned up occasionally, should be marked 
at 23 or 21 inches down from 122 at top, 
and gorge formed accordingly. 

We will now proceed and draft forepart, 
Figure 9, there is very little connected 
with this forepart difi'erent from the other, 
except the lapel being growing too, and in 
very heavy goods it is much more appro- 
priate ; these two foreparts are essentially 
alike, with the following exceptions : the 
sye measure in this case is laid down at 
111, the extra 1 being given in the diame- 



[Plate VII. 



ter of tlic sye. We will proceed and show 
how to draught (he front, wherein it dif- 
fers from the other forepart : mark A the 
breast measure from 3 to 10, sweep from 
IG to 1-43 by 3, take out Y of 1 inch from 
14i to 152, then 3| to 181, then 3| to 191, 
apply measure at natural waist, allowing 
3i inches for making up, including Y, and 
then form your front by those numbers. 

How TO DiiAtTonT Skirt, Fiuure 8. — 
Draw construction line from to Idh, 
mark down from 21 and 83, measure 
carefully the width of your waist, and 
apply it from 21 to 20, including 1 inch 
over for making up, then lay elbow of 
square on 20 with long arm resting on 21, 
and draw spring of skirt ; draw line from 
21, to 20, or top of skirt, and hollow 3 
inch, lay bottom of sidebod}' in a joining 
position at 20, and round plait of skirt to 
correspond with sideseam about 3 inches 
up, mark length of skirt by that of back, 
the front 3 inch less than behind, and give 
it the same round as that of waist. The 
sleeve. Figure 4, is drafted in the follow- 
ing way : First measure around the sj'e of 



your forepart, suppose it to be 18 inches, 
then draw your construction line from to 
33, to 20 fs length of elbow, then mark 
the distance on forepart from 8 to IO3, 
or 2.2, and h the distance on back from 
41 to 63, which is H, add 23 and i 
together, make 31, deduct 1 for joining 
of sideseam, and you have got 31 ; from 
middle of pitch or back arm seam to bot- 
tom of sye, then mark down 3| to 31, draw 
lines from 31 to 9, and also 20 to 9, which 
is 3 the S3'e measure ; then draw line from 
to 9 or 91, divide that in halves to 3, 
mark h of same from 3 to 31, and sweep 
from to 9 by 31, and straighten the curve 
a little towards the forearm ; draw hair 
line of ibrearm from 9 at top to 9 at bot- 
tom, sweep from 33 at bottom to 9 by 0, 
mark frpm 9 at bottom to 62, the width of 
3'our bottom, mark 1 inside to 81, and out- 
side 1 and form forearm, from 9 by 1 to 9, 
and backarra from by 1 to 63 at bottom, 
for underside, mark 3 your sye from 9 at 
front to 1 behind, and form v'our under- 
side as model ; the collar 6, and the lapel 7, 
are drafted by the scale corresponding with 
the breast measure. 



TlciUdth 




Description of Plate VIII. 



j"]|\N Figures 1, 2, 3, is Uie diogram of a 
'°|Jy' single breasted sack coat, it is drafted 
"■!■ to the following measure : diameter 
crosswise, 43, lengthwise, 51, shoulder 
measure 121, blade 17, sye measure' HI. 
It is marked llA, but should be 111, depth 
of s_ye on back 8h, natural M'aist 17, full 
length 19, skirt 30, breast 18, waist 10. 

How TO Draught Back, Figure 3. — 
Draw construction line from to 30, lay 
on elbow of square at 0, and draw back 
line from b}" h, then mark down from 
depth of sye 82, lay on diameter length- 
wise on back line, 51 on 83, and draw line 
depth of shoulder from 31, then divide di- 
ameter, say 21 or centre, mark 3 inch be- 
low centre for bottom of pitch at 61, then 
mark up from 61 to 4, 21 inches for top 
line of pitch or according to fashion, then 
mark down from natural waist 17, and 
full length 19, square the uijper lines by 
back line, and waist lines by construction 
line, lay on your sye measure at back line 
at 83, 111, and deduct your diameter 
crosswise off 4, from 111, leaving 71, to 
which we add h inch for seams to 81, draw 
hair line from 71 up to top of pitch, and add 
1 inch inside to 81, mark inside from at top 
21, raise top i for spring, form top from to 
I, as model, and shoulder from I to 8| from 
81 by 71 to 81, from 71 to 81 is I inch add- 
ed to S3'e measure for seams, mark width 
of bottom inches, draw line from 81 to 6 
and form sideseam by 7 or 2 inside from 8, 
and form out your back seam as model 
from 2 to 30, the diameter crosswise is 
placed here with 3 diameter at 2g, and 1 
inch down from line, for the purpose of 
forming back, and also showing the 1 inch 
extra which back of sack requires more 
than other coats, as given from 10 to 9 at 
point of side of forepart. 

How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 1. 
— Draw construction line from to 30|, 
square in top, mark down from your 
shoulder measure to 10 with lop of back 



2'i added, making 121, the shoulder meas- 
ure being 121, thus allowing h inch extra 
for making up, then lay on back 81 on 10, 
and mark line of pitch and diameter length- 
wise, 71 and 41 respectively-, and run back 
up to top and mark line depth of shoulder 
at 31, b}- that of back, then S(|uare those 
lines across, mark length of waist on fore- 
part by back, from 9 to 18, 20, by 81, 8, 
and sijuare those lines across, also the line 
231 or depth for flap, then mark from to 
4, diameter crosswise with the h inch add 
ed to back, from 71 to 81, to 101 is 3 sye 
measure, then draw these lines to 4 and lOl 
at bottom, then mark centre line, or .2 di- 
ameter crosswise as at 2, and lay 011 back 
Figure 2 as model, with line depth of shoul- 
der touching centre line and top of back 
at B, touching top line at 61, apply your 
blade measure from bottom of sye over 
shoulder to 83, or blade measure to 17, add 
1 of inch for making up, aiid form shoulder 
of forepart, according to model. In all 
sack coats, unless in very erect structures, 
we let the point of shoulder touch construc- 
tion line at 31 and in erect structures we 
use the line depth of shoulder, instead of 
proof centre, in all sack coats, as it makes 
the shoulder a little straighter, and braces 
them up a little more in front, then add 1 
inch up from 10 to 9 at side, mark I out- 
side from 18 at natural waist, and mark 
22 at bottom, and form sideseam as model, 
mark on front ot breast from 3 to 141, 3 
breast, with 11 inches added, sweep from 
141 to 133 by 3, in front of sye, draw line 
from I3 to 132, and form neck gorge as 
model, the Figure 3 marked on either side 
of 4 at bottom, is 1 the sye measure placed 
on either side of corner, for crossing the 
lines in forming sye, then form sye by 
shoulder point at 31, by 3, 4, 3 to 9, square 
in bottom Irom 301 to 141 at front, draw 
line from 141 at front of breast to 141 at 
bottom, mark 1 inch in front to 151, then 
form front and bottom as follows : from 132 
by 141, 151, 151, 15^, 121, to 2i, and 
complete sack coat. 



Description of Plate IX. 



#N Figure 2, 3, 4 of this plate we have 
' two ditferent styles of a New York 
"? jacket, the same back being adapted 
to either forepart. These jackets are both 
drafted to the same measure, and are both 
laid out on the frock principle, and we do 
not propose to go over the system with 
these jackets, but simply to refer the reader 
to Figures 5 and 6, on plate YI. ; where we 
have given a verj" ample explanation of a 
single breasted jacket of the same style. 
Our explanation in this case, shall, there- 
fore be directed in showing how to draft 
the double breast. The shoulder of Figure 
4 is established by the centre point and 
that of Figure 2 by line depth of shoulder. 
It will be perceived that the line depth of 
shoulder produces a straight shoulder, 
which some of our patrons may prefer in 
this style of coat ; they can try both prin- 
ciples and adopt that which they like the 
best. They are both cut double breasted, 
the one being pointed lapel with square 
bottom, and the other with curved lapel 
and curved bottom ; there is no extra al- 
lowance given to diameter crosswise at 
poiut of side of these jackets, for the fol- 
lowing reason : that when the fish under 
arm is joined, it will throw it, the point of 
side, out 3 inch, and draw it down to the 
same amount ; besides we have added h 
extra to pitch of back at 7 3, at sideseam 
on Figure 2 ; from front of sye to lapel is 
2 breast to 15 2, and width of lapel 31 to 
181 ; sweep from 15h to 131, take out Y 
to 143, add 3 inches to 11 h or top of lapel, 
then mark I83 in front, at natural waist, 
and at full length 171 ; bottom 123 ; and 
form the front as model. In Figure 1 the 
front of breast and lapel is 1 less, being 
151 and I83 ; 18 in front at natural waist, 
and 143 at bottom ; and is formed by the 
numbers in front in the same way we have 
described. The hollow at sideseam of 
these styles of jackets should be stretched 
8 of an inch at h, at natural waist, before 
joining, and cut that much short at 231, 
and the lining kept full oversidebody. By 
a strict observance of the manner of draft- 
ing these jackets in connection with Fig- 



ures 5 and 6, plate YI., will enable the read- 
er to draft one of these jackets as easy as 
any other coat. 

Figures 1 and 5 are the diagrams of a 
reefer or pea jacket. This jacket is draft- 
ed to the same measure as that of the other 
two jackets, excepting sye measure, which 
is 1 of inch more in this case than the others, 
the following is the measure : diameter 
lengthwise, 53; crosswise,, 41; shoulder 121; 
blade, 171; sye measure, 111 ; the other 
jackets II3 ; depth of proof centre, 11 ; cen- 
tre point, 7i ; depth of sye on back, 8 3 ; nat- 
ural waist, 17; full length in Figures 2 and 4, 
21; in Figure 1, 283; length of skirt in each 
30. In the sye measure of these jackets, 
the reader may think we have only allowed 
1 of inch extra for making up, but such is 
not the fact, as when the lish under arm is 
joined it will throw out the point of side 
at 2 and 9, from 1 to 3 inch, which adds 
so much to the sjg measure. In back. 
Figure 1. the 2 inch added to the sye 
measure for making up, is given to the 
width of back at pitch, to 71 ; the line of 
proof centre is not used in this jacket ; but 
the line depth of shoulder, as marked on 
Figure 3, on back, placed for forming 
shoulder marked by hair lines ; the step 
at 232 on back, may be omitted in this 
jacket, according to fashion, and at the will 
of the cutter ; the back line is marked in I 
at natural waist, and § at step. The width 
of back at natural waist is 6 inches, and at 
bottom 61 ; the front of breast in the same 
Avay as that of Figure 4, excepting that 
the front is drawn straight from 161 in 
front of breast, to 161 at bottom. In some 
cases half inch more might be added at 
bottom. At natural waist of forepart. Fig- 
ure 5, the side is outside of construction 
line 1 of inch, and at plait 11, and at bot- 
tom 23 ; this point is regulated a good 
deal by fashion. They are made to lit 
rather close at this point, at the present 
time. Figure 25 is for locating the top 
of plait, and also of flap ; the other 
points of the diagram seem so conspic- 
uous, that further comments are thought 
unnecessarv. 



ruue 




2G 



[Plate X. 



dci)tli of shoulder, and therefore has uoth- 
iiig added. But we mostly keep the point 
of shoulder at construction line, at 42, and 
the front point touching lop line as at 7 ; 
then appl}'' blade measure with i of inch 
added for overcoat, and if there is any 
filling up of shoulder, sufficient for that 
purpose, and form shoulder to correspond 
with your measure. Then mark I outside 
at natural waist, and li outside from 25i, 
and 3i at bottom ; and form side seam 
from 9? by % to oh at bottom, and sye from 
42 by 3, 4.1, 3, 91 ; then draw line from 
ll to 122, and form neck-gorge as model ; 
then take out V of 1 of inch, as from 121 
to 13 : then mark in front of sj'e from 3 to 
13i, 3 breast measure ; sweep from-13i to 
121 at top ; take out V as to 13 ; mark 
width of lapel from lo^ to 17, or 3^ inches 
and 3 at top, from 13 to 16 ; draw line 
from 171 to 171 at bottom ; add 1 inch out- 
side, as to 18 ; and draw front line from 
171 to 18, by 172 and 17t ; then draw 
bottom line on the square, front and rear ; 
mark down from line 1 of inch, and form 



bottom, from 1 to oA ; take out fish, as from 
22 to 5 as model, and finish forepart. 

Figure 6 is the diagram of single breast- 
ed over sack, and is drafted to the same 
measure, with the following exceptions. It 
is but 2 inches shorter ; the diameter in 
this forepart is marked at 42, and the back 
at 9, 8, 82, should be reduced 1 of inch re- 
spectivelj' ; the 161 at bottom is in the 
wrong place, as it applies to the front hair 
line ; the front of breast is 2 breast meas- 
ure from front of sye ; and the lapel is 21 
inches in width. When a straight sack is 
required, the back line and side lines are 
cnt straight, and no fish taken out under 
arm. 

The sleeve. Figure 4, is drafted in the 
same way as that represented ou Figure 4, 
plate VII. The distance in all cases from 
to 31 should be from where back seam of 
sleeve joins on back i)itch, which, in this 
case, would be 1 inch above 8, and would 
amount to 4, and therefore 1 of inch loo 
short. 



PI a If // 




Description of Plate XL 



J,N Plate XI. wc give two illustrations of 
J the stooping strneturc, and also two 
of the corpulent structure, and un- 
der this class of structures may be enum- 
erated all the various phases of what is 
usually called deformities. We will con- 
line our remarks to the corpulent structure 
lirst. In the Kolb coat, Figures 2 aiul 8, 
we have what is usually termed the pot- 
bellied structure. The various phases of 
this structure are the erect and extra erect, 
with high shoulders, and the extra erect 
stooping forward ; and under the head of 
the Highara coat, we have three different 
types of corpulency, namely : the st3'le 
known as the high hip-boned structure with 
high shoulders, whose stoutness is most be- 
hind, also the long bodied of a similar 
character, and also the structure which 
carries his corpulencj' all around, and 
is sometimes stooping. The Iligham coat 
represents the latter phase, all but the 
stooping. We will now proceed and give 
the two measures, that the reader may be 
enabled to look at the contrast, and the 
natural result through the application of 
the measures by the system. The following 
is the Higham measure : diameter cross- 
wise, 5? ; lengthwise, Ql ; shoulder meas- 
ure, 141 ; blade, 201 ; sye measure, lih. ; 
eliptic, 16 ; depth of sye on back, 10 ; 
natural waist, 171 ; full length, 20 ; breast, 
23a ; waist, 20. We will now give the 
measure of the Kolb coat : diameter length- 
wise, T inches ; crosswise, 6 ; shoulder 
measure, 16 ; blade, 22| ; sye measure 15 ; 



eliptic. Mi ; deplh of sye on l)ack, l(»i ; 
natural waist, 18.V ; full length, 21 ; breast 
243 ; waist, 25. The reader, by looking 
at the diagrams of these two coats in con- 
nection with the measure, will at once per- 
ceive their peculiar adaptation to the 
structures in question. In the Higham 
coat we perceive the diagram of a structure 
that never can redound much to the artistic 
skill of the cutter, however much it may 
to his practical judgment, for these are a 
class of customers more difficult to (it than 
are usually met with. In cases of extreme 
corpulency, and when the body is gathered 
up in a heap, the form is such an unshapely 
mass that the cutter would most gladly 
avoid it if he could, and yet men of this class 
are very particular respecting the fit of their 
garments, i^articularly as far as ease is con- 
cerned, and, if it is not easy, everybody 
will soon know it. But there is one type of 
men in this phase of structure who wear 
their clothes with neatness and in good 
taste ; they are not only the most difiicult to 
fit, but also to suit, that the cutter generally 
meets with. We refer to the high shoul- 
dered, short bodied, high hip-boned struc- 
ture, whose cori)ulency is moderate in front, 
but very prominent behind. Among this 
class we have had some very talented men 
of certain peculiar characteristics ; we 
have had three very prominent members 
of the trade, of this type, and who were 
all men of talent. The long bodied struc- 
ture of this type is usually high shouldered 
and only moderately corpulent in front. 



30 



[Plate XL 



to solve that question — when you come 
across a customer of this kind, establish 
jt»ur centre point on the top of shoulder by 
a chalk mark, and from said centre point, 
applj' a measure first to the socket bone, 
next to the centre of diameter, or a point 
about the same distance down, established 
on back, and also to the bottom of sye on 
back ; these measures should be applied 
from the centre point as model, first to the 
bottom of sye on back, I extra should be 
added next to the point at centre, and h 
inch should be added next to the socket 
bone, 8, and h inch should be added ; the 
back and shoulder should be rounded and 



formed in connection with these measures, 
and in the case Avhere there is a liump on 
back, take the depth of the prominent part 
of the hump from socket bone, and apply 
the above measures from centre, and thus 
be able to ascertain the amount of roundness 
to give to shoulder and back seam. We 
give above the name, of this class of 
structures as deformities instead of misfits, 
as we do not intend there will be auj of 
the latter, and it displays the artistic abil- 
ity of the cutter to be enabled lo neutral- 
ize the strong points of the former so as 
not to appear conspicuous. 



I 



-pia,t^ n ^y 




3(P-2 



Description of Plate XII. 



J'^^IGURES 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 are the diagrams 
^ of a Garrick or Inverness cape. There 
arc two different styles of cloak represented 
on Figure 2, the one with sleeve and tlie 
■ other without : the one without is fornied by 
tlie Figures 11, 82 to I62, and is laid down 
to be drafted by the scale corresponding 
with the breast measure taken over the 
vest, the extra allowance being given in the 
diagram ; and in case some of our readers 
may not know how to use the scale, we 
will select scale 18, and proceed to draft 
this garment. To draft back, Figure 
1, — draw back line from to 38, square in 
top ; mark down from by the scale, S, 
5, 10, 37, 38, s(|uare these lines across ; 
mark on top line, 3 ; second line, 8s ; third 
line, IOt ; bottom, loi ; draw dotted line 
from IOt to 13^ ; and form top of back 
from H to 3 ; shoulder from 3 to 8g ; and 
side by 101 to 13i ; bottom from 38 to 
13i. To draft forepart, Figure 2, — draw 
construction line from to 37 ; mark 
down from 0, II, 21, 3|, Gl, 7, 11, 121, 26, 
30, 37 ; square these lines across ; mark 
inside, on top line, 43 ; second line, 13! ; 
third lino, 11 and ISl inside, and 11 out- 
side ; fourth line, 15 ; fifth line, 83, 141 ; 
sixth line, 82 ; 14? inside, and 2 outside ; 
seventh line is depth of pocket flap; eighth 
line, 21 2 inside, and 2 outside ; draw lines 
from 4j to 131, and from lo to 21 3 ; draw 
the short lines from 131 to 131, and from 
141 to 15 respectively, and curve shoulder 
j)oint out to 181 ; then form sj'e by 131, 
83 in front and 83 at bottom, to 141 at 
side ; nuTrk neck-gorge from 4-3 b}^ 21 to 
It, and front and bottom as model. 

To Draft Capk, Ficl're 3. — Draw con- 
slruclion line from to 30-2, square in 



top ; mark down from at top 2'i, 23, 30 i ; 
s(|uare these lines across ; mark inside at 
top, 43 ; second line, 11 ; 33 inside, and 

11 outside ; third line, 23 inside, and 11 
outside ; mark up from 11, 2 inches, and 
form the shoulder fi'om lA to 2, liy fore- 
part ; then draw straight line from 2 to 
I3 ; sweep from SOi to 23, by 3 tlio dis- 
tance from to 4.3 : and from 23 to 30 3 by 
43 ; and form front as model. 

To Draft Sleeve, Figure 3. — Draw con- 
struction line from to 27, square in top ; 
mark down from 0, 11, 5, 14, 20, 27, square 
tliese lines across ; mark on top line, 5, 
101 ; second line, 10, 11 ; fourth line, 11, 

12 ; bottom, 7 ; draw line from 101 to 11; 
and from 11 to 7 ; and form the outside of 
sleeve by 11, 12, 7; and forearm by 5, 1, 
26 ; bottom from 26 to 7 ; sleeve-head by 
11 ; 5 at top to 5 at forearm, and under- 
side as model. The collar is drafted the 
same way, and a larger or smaller scale, 
gives a larger or smaller pattern. The 
line running up from front of syc on shoul- 
der to 11 ; and also from bottom of sye to 
side at ICl, is indicating a Garrick without 
sleeve ; these points need not be added on 
in such case. To join it together, the 
point 131 and 131 should be joined to the 
point 141 and lo ; and then the sleeve 
should be jnit in ; then the cape. Figure 3, 
should be baisted on along the neck-gorge 
and down the side ; and then the back, 
Figure 1, should be joined to that of fore- 
part, 3 on back to point lA on shoulder, 
sewing the three pieces together as far 
down the side as the cape goes, and the 
back and forepart to the bottom. The 
step of cape is cut 3 inch -narrower than 
forepart, and when there is a iiyput in 
front, it should be in the cape. 



Description of Plate XIII. 



^tllLATE XIII. represents what is geiic- 
1l1 rally known as the King Williani 
* Cloak, with sleeves. This cloak, we 
believe, is correct in all its points ; a slight 
curve might be given to front. The back, 
forepart, and collar are drafted in the usual 
wny by the scale (which we have described 
on Plate XII., on Inverness Cape), cor- 
responding with the breast measure taken 
over the vest, the extra allowance being 
given in the diagram. To draft the 
cape and sleeve, draw construction line 
from to 29, mark down fi'om the num- 
bers on said line, draw the line 2?, and 
mark the numbers 7, 10, 13.1, and square 
up to 3s, then draw line from 4^ to 91, 
and also from 6 to 11, I62, ITi, ISs,- and 
draw the lines on the square by said num- 
bers, first to 81, IGg, next 81, next 12, 
IGs ; draw line on scpiare from 83 to lOl 



and 201, and square out the line from lOl 
to 7, or elbow, then draw lines from lit 
to I83 and from lih to 30g, sweep from 
20 to 30 8 by '•' mark at 3s, and form bot- 
tom of sleeve from 301 to 34:1 to 201, 
then form back arm seam from 9'l by 11, 
I82 to 30s, and back arm from 16s b}' 7 
to 201, and sleeve head from 91 hy 10, 31, 
81, 8b, 12, IGs, and draw forearm from 
8s to 341. In putting this cloak togellier 
it will be seen that the cape must be basted 
on the back and joined to the shoulder of 
forepart, and then the sleeve-head from 
8s on forepart to 91 on back, which is the 
same point. The underside sleeve is 
fastened to the lining by means of a bind- 
ing. It should have a fly down the front, 
and the edges should be fini.shed with a 
wide silk braid. 



riuic /'/ 



161 16- 




FUUe /4 




33 



Description of Plate XIV. 




J, I ^^IS Plate represents a King William 
il'l ; (Hoak witlaout sleeves. It is cut 
single-breasted, has a fly clown the 
front, and is intended to button close up 
to the neck. When a roll of breast is in- 
tended, an addition should be given to the 
front. This garment is much worn b}'- 
many for travelling purposes, and is a very 
handy garment for business men in going 
to and from their business. It is drafted 
in the usual way, by the scale correspond- 
ing with the breast measure taken over 
the vest, the extra allowance being given 
in the diagram. The reader will see at a 



glance how the cloak is put together. The 
cape. Figure 1, is basted on the back, Fig- 
ure 4, the shoulders joining to that of fore- 
part, and the sleeve-head, or wing, sewed 
into the sye and drawn down the side as 
far as it goes; the point, II3 on back, 
should join the point 13? on forepart, and 
also the notcli at side of back to notch at 
side of back to notch at 15 i on side of fore- 
part. It closes with a fly down the front 
as represented ; the hollowed part of col- 
lar is sewed to the neck-gorge, but before 
sewing to, it should be stretched and the 
crease shrunken in. 



34 



Description of Plate XV. 



^jgOW to draft half circular cloak, draw 
iJJjHJ] line from 8 on top to 42 at bottom ; 

' mark down from 8 to 0, 8 inches or the 
width of neck, square in top or front of 
cloak. For taking the fish out of neclc, 
square inside from to 82, and raise up 1 
inch, same as back of King William : then 
draw line of shoulder to bottom at 44 by 
4, or 5 neck ; then mark down from 0. 51 
and square out to lOj ; then mark 4 inches 
down on front and 10, draw line from 4 in 
front b}' 62 to 10 down on shoulder, and 
then form curve of shoulder from 62 to 101 ; 
sweep front of neck from 5 2 to 10 by 4 in 
front, and bottom from 42 to 44 by 4 on 
top, and from 44 to 41 b}^ 62 ; then add 1 
inch for step in front, as represented by 
dotted line. The scale can also be used 
for this cloak. 

How to draft three quarter circular 
cloak, Figure 3 — draw back line from 4 to 
42, and square in top from 4 to 432; from 
to 4 is half the neck measure, square in- 
side from 0, 82 inches, mark 1 inch up and 
sweep the neck from 0, 1, 2 by 4 ; straight- 
en the curve 2 inch down at front, then 
measure the length of neck-gorge, which 
should be 2 or 2\ inches more than tight 



measure of neck, which would L-e 10 or IO2, 
and usually divides the neck equally in 
three parts, or three quarter circular, and 
draw front line from 4 b}' 2 to 4O2, curve 
front as model, sweep from 42 to 432 l\y 1, 
and from 432 to 432 by 4, and from 432 
to 41 by 2 : the collar, Figure 2, is adapted 
to either of these cloaks. 

Figure 4 is the diagram of a Russian 
Hood, which may be worn with any over 
garment. It is drafted by the scale cor- 
responding witli the breast measure from 
the line of construction, which runs from 
to 241 ; square in top to lOi, and estab- 
lish all the other points bj- the scale and 
the numbers on the diagram, and form as 
model. To put the bood together, seam 
up the cuts on the neck first ; from 7-3 to 
24 T is on the crease ; then seam it along 
the bottom and open up the crease, and 
place the number 16 on 72 ; put a binding 
an inch wide around the neck-gorge, so as 
to contain holes to button under the stand- 
up of the collar. The part from IO2 to 10 
should have a large turn in, so as to allow 
of a small ribbon or a piece of India-rub- 
ber to run through it, to confine it inclose 
to the neck or for use when required. 



Flute /5 




"I-ik 42 



Plate 1G 




Description of Plate XVI. 



MILITARY 



J^T'IGURES 1, 2, 3, 4, with 9 on plate 
XVn. are the diagrams of a militaiy 
^ cloak or coat. It should be of dark blue 
cloth, and closed by means of four frog but- 
tons of black silk, and also i loops of black 
silk cord down the front, as represented on 
diagram, and at the throat b}- a long loop 
(/ Exhille, without tassel or plait, on the 
left side, and a black silk frog button on 
the right ; the cord for the loops should be 
fifteen hundredths of an inch in diameter, 
the back is without seam, but is cut up 
from 15 to 17 inches, in proportion to the 
length, and a fly set in with 7 buttons and 
holes ; collar of the same color and mate- 
rial as the coat ; the edges should be 
slightly rounded off, and should be made 
to either stand or fall, and when standing, 
to be about 5 inches wide, sleeve loose, 
of a single piece, and round at the bottom, 
without cuft' or vent ; the linings should be 
of woolen. There should be a black silk 
braid about half inch wide sewed flat on 
the edges, and also the pockets ; and 
around each frog button on the breast a 
knot two and one quarter inches diameter, 
of black silk cord, seven hundredths of 
an inch in diameter, arranged in accord- 
ance with the drawing on diagram. The 
cape is of the same color and material, and 
can be removed at the pleasure of the 
wearer, and should reach to the bottom of 
sleeve when the arm is extended ; the 
length of the cloak should be from G to 8 
inches below the knee, or in proportion to 
height, to indicate the rank ; there will be 
on both sleeves, near the lower edge, a 
knot of flat black silk braid, not exceeding 
8 of an inch in width, arranged to corres- 
pond with the drawing, and composed as 
follows : 

For a General — of five braids, double 
knot. 

For a Colonel — of five braids, single 
knot. 



For a Lieutexant-Colonel — of four 
braids, single knot. 

For a Ma.tor — of three braids, single 
knot. 

For a Captain — of two braids, single 
knot. 

For a First Lieutenant — of one braid, 
single knot. 

For a Second Lieutenant and Brevet 
Second Lieutenant — a plain sleeve, with- 
out knot or ornament. 

This cloak is drafted in the usual way 
from the line of construction b}' the num- 
bers on the diagram, corresponding with 
those of the scale. We will now finish 
military cloak by showing how to draft cape 
in plate XVIIL Lay back and forepart 
in a joining position at shoulder, then mark 
around the neck and down the back the 
length you wish to cut the cape, say 31 
inches ; then give it the same shape as 
front of forepart ; it should be a little fuller, 
it having to fit over the cloak ; carry out 
shoulder line to bottom of cape, give it 
li more over shoulder than behind, and 
1 less in front than behind, and sweep 
the bottom from 38 to 15 by 44, and from 
15 to 322 by U, and from 322 to oOi by 
3. This cape can also be drafted by the 
scale. The ornament on sleeve, with three 
braids, should be carried along the bottom 
of underside, as represented. 

For all other officers, dark blue close 
fitting double-breasted surtout coat, with a 
cape made to detach from the coat, and fall 
to the tips of the fingers, when the arm 
and hand are extended, the skirt of the 
coat for mounted officers to reach half way 
between the knee and the sole of the foot. 
For dismounted officers, three inches below 
the knee. This coat should have 7 buttons 
on each breast, of the same pattern as 
those on the uniform coat ; the insio-nia of 
rank are the same as the cloak. 



36 



Description of Plate XVII. 



COATS— FULL DllESS. 

For Officers.^ — All officers shall wear 
a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue 
cloth, the skirt to extend from one half to 
three fourths the distance from the hip 
joint to the bend of the knee. 

For a General. — Two rows of but- 
tons on the breast, twelve in each row, 
placed by fours, the distance between each 
row five and one half inches at top, and 
three and one half inches at bottom ; stand 
up collar, not less than one nor more than 
two inches in height, to hook in front at 
the bottom, and slope thence up and back- 
ward at an angle of thirty degrees on each 
side, corners rounded ; cuffs three inches 
deep, to go around the sleeves parallel with 
the lower edge, and with three small but- 
tons at the under seam ; pockets in the 
folds of the skirt, with two buttons at the 
hips and one at the lower end of each side- 
edge, making four buttons on the back and 
skirt of the coat ; collar and cuffs to be of 
dark blue velvet ; lining of the coat black. 

For a Lieuten-ant General. — The 
same as for a general, except that there 
will be ten buttons in each row on the 
breast, the upper and the lower groups by 
threes, and the middle groups by fours. 

For a Major General. — The same as 
for a general, except that there will be 
nine buttons in each row on the breast, 
I^laced by threes. 

For a Brigadier General.— The same 
as for a general, except that there will be 



eight buttons in each row, on the breast, 
placed by pairs. 

For a Colonel, Lieutenant Colonel, 
AND Major. — The same as for a general, 
except that there will be nine buttons in 
each row on the breast, placed at equal 
distances ; collars and cuffs of the same 
color and material as the coat. The upper 
half of the cuffs to be ornamented with 
three double stripes of gold braid running 
the length of the cuff, pointed at their 
upper ends, and with a small button below 
the point of each stripe, according to pat- 
tern. 

For a Captain, 1st Lieutenant, 2nd 
Lieutenant, and an additional 2nd 
Lieutenant. — The same as for a colonel, 
except that there will be seven buttons in 
each row on the breast, and two stripes 
on the cuffs. 

For all Storekeepers. — A single- 
breasted coat, as lately Avorn by captains 
of the staff, with staff shoulder-straps to 
indicate rank. 

This coat shall be worn on all dress oc- 
casions, such as reviews, inspections, dress 
parades, guards, and courts-martial. It 
will be habitually worn at battalion drills, 
except in hot weather, or when otherwise 
exceptionally directed by the commanding 
officer. 

Figures 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, on Plate XVII. 
are the diagrams ot single and double- 
breasted military coat, and are drafted b}^ 
the system to the following measure : di- 
ameter lengthwise, 5t ; crosswise, 4t ; 



J'ir-' 




Plate XVII.'] 



37 



shoulder, 121; blade, 171; sye, II5; clip- 
tic, 131 ; depth of sye on back, 8 s ; nat- 
ural waist, 171 ; full length, 19 ; to bottom 
of skirt, 36 ; breast, 18 ; waist, 10 ; collar, 
8. These coats arc drafted the same as 
dress frock, with the following exception : 
The length of breast should be taken from 
the nape of neck, and when the thumb is 
on the measure at front of waist, the meas- 
ure should be carried up to the extreme 
point of neck-bone ; and, in the application 
of this measure, 2 inch more should be 
added for the drawing in of front. In sin- 
gle breast there should be 1 incli added to 
front, and should be fulled on, and facings 
kept tight and well wadded, which will re- 
quire the extra inch. The Frock Coats 
are adopted in most all cases of militarj^ or 
navy, the difference consisting chiefly of 
trimming. The single-breasted frock is 
but little worn, except by militia. The 
skirts of military coats should have more 
draper}' than citizens, and therefore hol- 
lowed a little more at waist, and given a 
little more spring beliind. 

COATS— UNDRESS. 

For Officers (for fatigue ^ inarches, 
squad and company drills, and other drills, 
when authorized bj^ the commanding offi- 
cer, and for ordinary wear.) A sack coat 
of dark blue cloth or serge ; fiilling collar ; 
single breasted, with five buttons in front 
same as those Avorii on the dress coat ; 
with black braid 1 of an inch wide, extend- 
ing from each button and button-hole back 
six inches, and terminating in "herring 
bone" loops. 

The skirt to extend from ^ to § the dis- 
tance from the hip joint to the bend of the 
knee ; and to be slashed at the hip on each 
side ; a knot of black braid, 1 of an inch 
wide, on the upper part of the cuffs, ac- 
cording to pattern. 



The shoulder straps will always be worn 
with it. Black braid binding, i of an inch 
wide, around edge of coat. 

For Storekeepers. — Of pattern above 
described, but wilhout braid. 

For Chaplain. — Plain black frock coat, 
with standing collar ; one row of nine black 
buttons up the breast, with "herring 
bone " of black braid around tiie buttons 
and button-holes. 

FATiaUE SACK. 
On Figures 2, 4 and 10 we give the back, 
forepart and collar for a fatigue sack. We 
have not given the sleeve as we had not 
room for it, but a full description of it is 
given, as also the mode of trimming, and 
the reader can draft the sleeve by the 
measure, according to the sj'stem. This 
sack is close-fitting, and is drafted by the 
system in the usual way, excepting where 
it is laid out to be cut down all the way 
under the arm to bottom for spring, and 
to give ease over the loins. The breast is 
cut full, to be wadded in military style, in 
material which requires it. Figure 2 is the 
collar, and is adapted for buttoning close 
up to the neck. 

TROWSERS. 

For General Officers, Otiicers of the 
General Staff and Staff Corps. Dark blue 
cloth, plain, without stripe, welt or cord. 

For all Regimental Officers of Cav- 
alry, Artillery and Infantry. — Light 
blue cloth, same shade of color as pre- 
scribed for enlisted men, with stripe 1^ 
inches wide, welted at the edges ; color, 
that of facings of their respective arms, 
except infantry, whicli will be dark blue. 

Storekeepers. — Dark blue cloth, with 
black stripe, Ih inches wide. 

For Chaplains. — Plain black. 



Description of Juvenile Plate. 



y-U^IGURES 2, 3, 4, 18 are the diagrams 
of a little cutaway jacket, laid out to 
a breast measure of 24, but any size 
may be cut by our graduating scales, by 
selecting the scale corresponding with the 
breast measure. We will now proceed 
and show how to draft this diagram as a 
criterion by which to draft all the others. 

How TO Draft Back, Fiuure 4. — Draw 
construction line from to 20t, square in 
top ; mark down from 0, 4, 6h, 8, loi, 
201, square these lines across ; mark on 
top line, 2t, and up for spring I ; mark 
on top of pitch, 81 ; middle of pitch, 7i ; 
bottom, Ih ; inside at waist, 6| ; bottom, 
Gi ; hollow the back about 2 iuch, as 
model. Form top from to I ; shoulder 
from T to 81 ; pitch from 8? by 7 5 to 7^ ; 
side from 7 3 to Gi, at plait and bottom. 

Description of Forepart, Figure 3.— 
Draw construction line from at top to 
21 3 at bottom ; mark down from at top, 
21, 31, 81, 9i, 16t, 21 2, square these lines 
across, inside and outside ; mark outside 
from 2s, 51 ; next from 91-61 ; next from 
161—41 ; outside from 3l-6g ; outside from 
8l-l'l, and ^5^ ; outside at waist, 63 ; at 
bottom, 73. Form shoulder from toGi ; 
side from 63 by 63 to 7^ ; sye from Gs by 
11 to 53 ; neck-gorge from to 51 ; and 
front from 51 by 61, 41, 21^ and 73. 

How TO Draft Sleeve, Figure 2. — 
Draw construction line from to 18, 4, 
10, 17-3 ; square these lines across; mark 
outside from at top, 41, 81 ; outside at 
elbow, 81 ; at bottom, 53 ; mark inside 



from 4, G3, 72 ; square up from 63 to 7 ; 
mark inside at elbow, 8 ; and at bottom, 
53 ; form sleeve-head from I down from 
81, 41, 4, 2i, to 7 ; and the rest of the 
sleeve by the numbers indicated on the 
diagram, and finish sleeve by forming the 
ornament representing a cuff, which is 
done b}^ a tracing braid. And also form 
the ornament represented on back and 
forepart, with the little plait at bottom with 
3 buttons. The collar, 18, is drafted in 
the same way. The little vest. Figure 1, 
is an accompaniment of the jacket,- and is 
drafted in__the way we have been describ- 
ing, and trimmed as represented by the 
tracing braid. Figures 8 and IG arc the 
little breeches accompanjing this "suit, the 
trimming of whicli is in accord with that of 
the jacket, the points of which the reader 
will see at a glance. These breeches are 
drafted in the way we have already de- 
scribed, from the line of construction, by 
the scale corresponding with the breast 
measure and the numbers on the diagram. 
These breeches arc suited to any of the 
other jackets on the plate ; the trimming 
may be omitted or another pattern substi- 
tuted in accord with that of the jacket. 

On Figures 5, G, 7, we have another 
style of suit, which is a Highland costume. 
Tlie sleeve and collar. Figures 2 and 18, 
are adapted for this jacket also. This 
jacket is of the Derby style ; the line of 
construction of forepart runs from the 
point of shoulder, and it has a little] false 
vest attached, which is fastened to the 
linings inside. It has openings at side 



Juvenile Platk] 



39 



and beliiiul, fonning three cufves: it fastens 
willi a little tal) at the neck. This jacket 
is drafted in the same way we have de- 
scribed the other. We will describe the 
way to draft skirt, Figure 5. Draw front 
from to 14, and draw line on the square 
to 2\h and 2ti, with :> inches added for 
the ?) plaits running from 5 at top to 14 at 
l)ottom ; then square up from 21 2 to 5 ; 
draw line of waist from to 5; and hollow 
top to 11 inches, then draw the line of 
l)lait from 5 to 14 by 2lh, and add the 3 
inches outside, and form the plaits as 
model ; and form l)Ottoin according to the 
same curve as the waist. There should be 
a band ] 1 inches in width, sewed on to the 
waist, with holes worked in it to fasten to 
the waistband of Knickerbockers, which is 
worn underneath. The Knickerbockers 
are in plate XXIIl, and are drafted by the 
scale corresponding with the hip measure. 

On Figures 11, 12, 15, with sleeve 2, 
we have a very neat style of Derby jacket. 
This jacket has a plait behind and at side, 
it lias a little curved lapel, and fastens 
with a tab underneath the lapel. The 
pockets are at waist, covered with tlaps : 
the vest adapted to this jacket should close 
higher than Figure 1. Some of these jack- 
ets are ornamented with a tracing braid 
around the edge ■; this jacket is drafted in 
tiie same waj' we have already described. 
The little pants. Figure 8, are adapted to 
this jacket. 

Figures 9, 13, 14, ID, are the diagrams 



of a loose over sack or blouse, for a child; 
it has an ornament at side of back, and 
also on llap and at sleeve hand, with 3 
buttons ; the collar, 20, is also adapted to 
th s blouse. It is single breasted and but- 
tons u|) the front either with fly or without. 
The band, Figure 82, is also adapted to 
this blouse ; it is drafted in the usual way. 
Figures 10, 17, 21, 22, 23, are the dia- 
grams of a diagonal blouse. Figure 17 is 
the back, and is drafted in the usual way ; 
Figure 21 is the forepart, and should be 
drafted as laid down in diagram, the con- 
st ruction line in centre, the points outside, 
not only indicating the blouse, but also the 
diagonal line where it joins ; after the 
forepart is drafted and the diagonal (ipcn- 
iiig marked, the pattern should be cut 
around the diagonal line, and enough of 
material added lo the underpart to run 
IVdui 2t on point of shoulder in a straight 
direction to lap about 2 inches at 13i at 
bottom'; the upper part of shoulder is 
formed with three points, where it laps un- 
derside, and is fastened on shoulder with 
three buttons and holes, and down the 
front with 12. Figure 10 is the sleeve, and 
Figure 22 is the belt which is just half the 
size, and should be fastened around the 
middle at waist. Figure 23 is the collar, 
and is designed to lit close around the 
shoulder. This blouse should be trimmed 
all around with two rows of braid Ih inches 
from the edge, and h inch apart, interlined 
with one row of tracing braid. 



40 



Description of Plate XIX. 



JlpGURES ], 2, 5, 8, 9 and 11 are the 
^^J| diagrams of the Ibreparts of seven 
different styles of vests to the same 
back, figure 7. 

We will illustrate the maimer of draft- 
ing by figures 7 and 8, which is a dress 
vest, with low roll of breast. The meas- 
ures should be taken for length of vest from 
socket bone behind down to the length that 
the vest should be opened, then the full 
length of front, next breast and waist 
measure. We will suppose the following 
measure : length of opening, 16 inches ; 
full length, 25 inches ; breast, 18 ; waist, 
IG. Draw construction line from to 22, 
Sfjuare in top, mark along top h breast meas- 
ure, which is 9 inches, then divide that in 
13 [)arts, or 1-6 and h respectively; then 
mark down from 0, li inches or l-12t]i 
breast measure, and to 6 one-third, and 9 
one-half, and to 17 3 the length of natural 
waist, and when you have not got the 
natural waist, appl}' half the breast 3 inch 
less, then apply your measure length of 
vest from 6, or point of shoulder at top ; 
supposing width of top of back, 3 inches or 
1-6 ; lay the 3 on 6 and apply length of 
breast down to 9 at bottom, with | of inch 
added for making up ; then square these 
lines across ; then mark in from natural 
waist 1 inch ; apply half j'oiir waist meas- 
ure from said inch to front, with li inches 
in front at natural waist added. 1 inch 
for making up, and A inch for V to UH, 
and 9 at bottom ; mark 1| inches in front ; 
draw line of shoulder from 6 to Ih ; then 
apply your measure down to the length of 
opening on breast, say 18 ; then draw your 
front by the It you have established by 
li to 9 at bottom ; then mark up from 



22, 3 inches, or l-iith, and draw bottom of 
vest from 9 to 19 ;. form your sideseam 
from 9 bj' 1 at natural waist ; let it be well 
sprung below natural waist, as model ; 
mark the width of top of shoulder about 
iik inches, and form j^our sye as model ; 
draw dotted line from 3 at top to II at 
front of breast, or the length of opening, 
according to measure ; and form the neck- 
gorge as model ; and take out V as repre- 
sented on forepart. As this vest is design- 
ed to open well on the breast, we cut the 
sewing to part of collar, or stand up, rather 
straight ; and the sewing, too, should be 
kept a little tight along towards, the front, 
so that when the vest is lini.shed, the crease 
will be hollow, something resembling the 
neck-gorge. These vests can be drafted as 
well b}^ the scale as by divisions of the 
breast measure ; and we should prefer the 
use of the scale, as in the larger sizes it 
(the scale) will curtail the size of the vest 
to the dimensions required, and it is more 
convenient. But at the waist, the real 
measure should be applied, so as to give it 
sufficient width at this part, no matter how 
small the waist measure may be. the front 
of vest should never be brought inside of 
the point 9 at bottom, but the extra mate- 
rial should be taken out as V ; this is 
found necessary to prevent the vest raising 
up in front. In cases where the scale is 
used for cutting a garment for a tall and 
slim man, a scale a size larger should be 
used for the lengths than for widths ; and 
if drafted by divisions, the bottom of sye 
and natural waist should be lengthened in 
proportion to the length required. Figure 
1 is clerical or English style of vest, and 
is drafted in the same manner as Figure 8, 



Viate /9 



"f « -3 . 




15 lit 



Plate XIX.] 



41 



■ with the following exception : that.') gfad- 
uale'd inches, or i-(3th, is marked down 
fVoni to locate the fVout of neck-gorii-o, 
and there is 1 inch added in front of line 
at neck to 10, and 2 inches at front of 
breast to 11. At this point we vary from 
It to 2t in i)roportiou to the chest of the 
customer ; the collar should be cut to lit 
the gorge, according to model. 

In this diagram we also represent a vest 
of the straight form, without collar, which is 
usualljcalled the French style of vest. The 
reader will at a glance see the points of tkis 
vest. There is a little collar behind, repre- 
sented by the long curved piece, which is 
designed to give spring to this part of the 
neck gorge; the points of front of breast are 
indicated bj^ the numbers on the diagram, 
marked 11 behind, and I0?r in front. How 
to draft back, Figure 4 : draw construction 
line from to 20h, square in top ; mark 
down from 0, lOl inches, which should be 
from 1 to li inches more than from to !) 
at bottom of sye on forepart, one inch for 
the fair proportioned, and one and a half 
for the stooping ; mark on top 3 inches, or 
1-6 for width of top of back, and then 9, or 
half breast ; then draw line from 9 to bot- 
tom on the square ; mark down said line 4 
inches, or I breast measure, less half inch ; 
this should be raised up or down in pro- 
portion to high or low shoulders, then mark 
inside at bottom of sye, 1 inch, for making 
up, to 10, and give I5 inches at bottom, 
over half waist ; mark length of side of 
back by that of forepart ; raise spring of 
top I from 3, and form back as model. 
Figure 5 is the diagram of a double-breast- 
ed vest, and is drafted in the same wa}', 
with the following exceptions : the point 
of i^ck-gorge in front is established by 
placing the line 3 inches or l-6thfrom top, 
the front of breast is placed at 1 inch and 
Ig, I3 and 93 at bottom, respectivel}', but 
may be diminished in proportion to the 
size of chest, the width of lapel is placed 



at 2-2, 3, It, respectively, and the front of 
vest .should be formed by those points; the 
collar should be cut square. Figure 9 is a 
double-breasted vest of the shawl form. The 
diagram indicates the points of difference 
from the single breast ; in front of breast 
there is I'l inches more for single breast, 
and It is added at top for the double 
breast, making in all 3i ; and at Ijottoni 
It is added for the double ; and front of 
breast is formed in accordance with these 
points ; the collar should be fitted to the 
neck as represented on Figures 8 and 10. 

Figures 10 and 13 are the diagrams of 
a corpulent man's vest, and is drafted in 
the same way as Figure 8, only the roll of 
breast being much higher. It is di'afted 
to a breast measure of 24, waist 26, length 
3O3. At natural waist, where it is mark- 
ed 1 inch into sideseam, this point in vests 
should be marked 1 graduated inch, and 
the waist measure should be applied from 
sideseam to Ibh at front, with 1 inch add- 
ed, there being no V recpiired in such 
vests, no allowance is made for it ; the 
front of breast on line at bottom of sye 
is placed at 31 to 14.^; and the front of 
breast is formed in accordance with these 
points. The back. Figure 13, is drafted 
in the same way as Figure 7, excepting 
the additional width at'waist required by 
the measure. 

Figures 6, 7, 11, are the diagrams of a 
single-breasted vest. Either of the collars 
Figures 6 or 12, are suited to this forepart, 
and represent two different styles of vest, 
— a collar of the shawl form, as represent- 
ed on Figure 12, would give one style, or 
high-roll of the shawl form ; the other a 
pointed lapel ; the collars are drafted with 
the scale, -as the entire vest may also be. 

Ou Figure 5 we have another style of 
double-breasted vest, which is formed by 
the buttons running to a point at bottom, 
in the shape of a Y, about 21 inches up 
from bottom, and leaving an opening at 
bottom when buttoned, of 2 inches. The 
collars. Figures 4 and 12, are adapted to 
either of these vests, and thus producing 
either a vest of the pointed lapel form on 
the one hand, or the shawl form on the 
other, bv the change of collar. 



42 



Description of Plate XX. 



JMGrURE 1 is a diagram rei^resenting 
the measurement of pantaloons. How 
to take measure : Put the top of 
your measure in at the hollow of Avaist 
above the hip bones, and apply the meas- 
ure down to knee, which we will suppose 
23^ inches, then to bottom of side 42 
inches, we will then lake measure of leg 
by putting measure close up into fork (un- 
less you use an instrument for the purpose), 
and then apply the measure right down 
the side to what you think is the proper 
length, bring the measure also to the up- 
per part of foot, which is usually a good 
criterion to judge of the proper length, say 
32 inches, then apply waist measure around 
at the hollow of waist, and hip measure at 
the most prominent part of hips. (In cor- 
pulent men we take three measures, waist 
and one at the most prominent part of 
stomach, and one at the hips.) "We will sup- 
pose the waist and hip measure respectively 
16 inches and 19. In tight pants we take 
the thigh measure, dress and undress, and 
give the proper allowance for making up, — 
say, dress side llh, undress 11, knee 83, 
bottom 83 or according to fashion, eliptic, 
which should be taken on dress side ; from 
the exact point you started for side seam, 
draw the measure right through the fork 
and right over hip to the same point you 
started, say 332, and allow 11 inches in its 
application,, 341. 

We will now commence and draft Figure 
2. How to draft upper side : Draw con- 
struction line from to 42, square in top, 
then mark down from 0, 23 A inches, and 42 



or full length ; there should be 1 inch 
added for making up, then mark up from 
bottom 32 inches with i inch added, or leg 
seam, to 10, which makes line of fork, square 
those lines across, mark outside on this line 
from 10, 93 inches, or half hip measure, 
then mark inside from 10, » the hip meas- 
ure, which is 2i, which we have marked 
on diagram 23, and also 1-G to 3s, then 
divide the distance from 10 to 23, which 
is 11, then divide -the 11 which is t, and 
draw line from the g to top, then add the 31, 
and half hip measure, 9^ and 3s together, 
making 121, then mark in from 92 at side 
one half of the 121 or 61 ; and also 3 the 
width of upper side at bottom marked 21, 
which is 31, I inside to 21 or 3f, and draw 
centre line from 21 at bottom by 61, then 
mark outside from at top half waist 8 
inches and half hip 93, mark outside from 
centre at knee 41 inches, and inside of con- 
struction line 1 inch or 4 from centre ; then 
mark width of upper side at bottom, 31 
inches on either side of centre, draw line 
from 11 at fork to 42 at bottom, then mark 
the curves of upper side at fork to 23 and 
3 s as represented, and side from 8 by 93 — 
41 to 63, and bottom as model, then drop 
the line down 3 inch from at top, which 
is required in small waists, and finish up- 
per side. 

How to draft under side. Figure^. — 
Lay on upper side as Figure 2, mark line 
of top out t,o 10, and line of fork to 41, to 
41 is 1 of hip from construction line at 10, 
then sweep from 8 to 31 by 2^ at fork ; 
mark inside at knee from construction line 



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Plate XX.] 



2 inches or 5 from centre, and outside 3t 
or 81 added to width of upper side Si 
making width at knee 17 inches, mark in- 
side at bottom from 42 2 1 and outside 8?, 
amounting to lOl, and one half on each 
side from centre line^ 101 added to 71 of 
upperside, making in all 18 inches ; then 
applj^ waist measure from to 8 and from 
31 to 10 at side ; take out V of 3 inch, and 
thus allow H inches for making up ; appl}^ 
hip measure from where the line of seat 
crosses front across to side, allowing from 
21 to 2i inches for making up as to IO3 ; 
and then form top and side as model ; draw 
scat line from 2^ at fork to 3t at top and 
form your underside out to 4f , and leg from 
41 by 2 to 21 at bottom, and form bottom 
according to model. 

Figure 3 is drafted in the same way we 
have described, excepting the side, which 
represents a side stripe. In such cases 
allow 1 inch to be taken out as V from 71 
to side stripe at 9, and allow 1 inch to 9, 
and give 1 inch additional width to upper 
side at bottom ; draw your side seam with 
a straight line from 9 to 71 at bottom, then 
wdiatever you have taken off from upper 
side at 81 should be added to under side 



to lOi, and also apply the seat measure 
and eliptic as we have described in Fig. 1, 
and form _your under side by the measures. 
We recommend dropping the under side 
below the line of fork about k inch, as 
represented in Fig. 1, and stretched to that 
amount to make the pants sit clear of any 
creases at this point. AVe have drawn the 
line of seat I of an inch inside of centre 
line behind and advanced the point of side 
to lOi ; the object of this is twofold, namely, 
to take away all creases that might exist 
under the seat behind and also to take out 
the surplus material and avoid having too 
much round at the side. 

Figure 5 represents a man with small 
hips. The eliptic is small, being at 32^, 
and thus throwing the line of seat well 
back. Men of this build are flat behind, 
and round at side, having very prominent 
loin bones, which requires a good deal of 
round on this part of pants. These pants 
are drafted to the following measure — 
waist 15, hip 18, knee 82, bottom 81, side 40, 
leg 30 ; these pants are cut wider at knee 
than the others in proportion. There is 
nothing more in these panis calling for com- 
ment different from that we have given. 



44 



Description of Plate XXI. 



JICxURE 1 is I ho (lingram of a corpii- 
^ lent man's pants of tlie pot-bellied 
form, or one who has his corpnlency pretty 
well developed in front; which is generally 
indicated by the appearance, but always 
discovered more essentially by the appli- 
cation of the eliptic measure, which is al- 
ways more in the build which carries his 
thickness all around, than that of the pot- 
bellied structure. The waist and hip is 
put down at the same figure, 24 inches 
each ; knee 11, bottom 10, side 44, leg 31. 
(We perceive that our engraver has sub- 
stituted the letter R for that of K in all 
these diagrams, which was meant to indi- 
cate the knee.) We lay it down as a prin- 
ciple in the measurement of pants that in 
the proportionate structure there is always 
found a difference of 3 inches between 
waist and hip, thus IG and 19 are supposed 
to be a medium fair proportioned struc- 
ture ; i« stout builds we will suppose it at 
2 inches, and when the waist is large in 
proportion to the hips, as in the present 
case, we have laid it down as a maxim, 
and it is found to be generally correct in 
practice, to give two parts of the extra 
material to the front and the other to the 
.side. In the ])rcsent measure, according 
to this princii)le, the waist is 2 inches 
larger than fair proportion, which would 
require If inches given to the front, and the 
balance behind ; but there are exceptions 
to most of rules, and in the application of 
eliptic measure we discovered that the extra 
material should all l)e in front, and was much 



better a(la])ted to those pants. It should 
also be raised I as much at top as it is ad- 
vanced in front, and is therefore advanced 
2, and raised lA ; the top we curve a lit- 
tle and have it confined in a little for making 
up, so as to straighten it, as the prominent 
part of the thickness or roundness of 
stomach is usually about 3 inches lower 
down, which we have given 21, marked on 
diagram, and thus throw the fullness to 
this part ; and in forming the front, we 
curve it so as to give more width about 
3 inches down, and carry it gradual!}' into 
a hollow towards the fork. Indeed, we 
would advise taking a second measure here, 
in extreme cases, three inches below the 
waist, and if found to be 3 inch wider to 
add said i inch to the round of front 3 
inches below. In these jiants tlie eliptic 
measure is applied, and 1 1 inches added, 
establishing the point at 161, and making 
the width of top 131 inches, including the 
1 inch behind, from 31. But the question 
may be asked, if the eliptic measure is es- 
sential ? and suppose it to bo correctly 
taken, how could it apply in establishing 
the corpulenc}^ correctly in front ? The 
answer is : the eliptic measure being short 
at 161, in proportion to the waist measure, 
this shortness proves that the stoutness must 
go to the front, -where the eliptic does not 
appl3^ And observation going to confirm 
this opinion, it is found to be a safe rule of 
practice. The other portions of tlieso 
pants are drafted the same way we have 
explained elsewhere. 



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Plate XXL] 



45 



Figure 2 is a corpulent man's pants, and 
arc cut full falls. The measure is similar 
to that of Figure 1; the length of side is 
42 ; leg 30; waist 24; hip 24 ; knee 11 ; 
bottom 10; the width of top to 12.3 with 1 
behind and 12 top of front, is waist meas- 
ure, with lA added for making up, They 
are drafted in the same way as the others, 
excepting being raised 1| inches u[) from 
15i at top, for the full falls. In these 
pants there is S given to the front an^l ^i 
behind, marked Ih at front and raised 1 at 
top ; the underside is dropped at fork k 
inch below the line, and should be stretched 
to that amount. In these pants there 
should be I5 inches extra given at top for 
making up, and 3 extra allowed in the ap- 
plication of hip measure; the fall bearer 
should be cut to raise Ij inches higher than 
fall, and to have a vent about 4 inches 
down the side ; and should be cut I inch 
wider than fall, for the purpose of button- 
ing in front. In the widths of corpulent 
men's pants all extremes should be avoid- 
ed, as that of a medium width is entirely 
more becoming. 

Figure 3 is the diagram of a pair of knee 
breeches to the following measure : waist 
IG, hip 19, knee Ul, side 27^, leg llh. 
These breeches are cut for a waistband, 
but can be changed to full falls by adding 
11 inches at top, as represented on Figure 
2 ; they can also be cut the old frog nwuth 
style, by cutting a fall in from 0, about 5 
. inches in length, and 2 in width at top, and 
2i wide at bottom inside, from upper side, 
and to raise 1 inch higher than at top ; 
and should have a welt sewed on to the 



slit and made up 2 inch in width, with a 
fall l)earer underneath to button in front. 
At the bottom half the width of knee is 
given each way from the centre ; 23-5 is 
the knee, and 2T-j is the bottom ; they arc 
gently hollowed from knee to bottom, botii 
inside and outside ; and the upper side is 
gently curved around the bottom, and the 
under side slightly hollowed. They should 
have a welt sewed on and made up about 
g of inch wide, and a vent about 4 inches 
long at side, with 4 buttons and holes. 

Figure 4 is a gaiter, the length of which 
is 71 inches ; this gaiter opens down the 
front ; the slash in front marked Figure 0, 
has the hollowed part from to 1| joined 
to front, from Gi tolOL For buttoning, it 
should be fulled on a little at Gl ; it has 7 
holes and buttons down the front. It is 
drafted by the scale corresponding with 
the breast measure. 

Figure 5 is another style of gaiter, and 
closes at the side with 5 holes ; this gaiter 
i's 7 inches in length, It is drafted in the 
usual wav, from the line of construction 
which runs down the centre. A measure 
should be taken at the top, neck, and heel 
of the gaiter, and applied with sufficient 
allowed for making up. 

Figures 7, 8, 9, is the diagram of a pair 
of leggings or long gaiter. The length of 
this legging is 17^ inches. Figure 9 is the 
outside and 8 the inside, 7 is the tongue. 
The outside from 5 §-4 and 41, joins the in- 
side from 73-51 to Gg ; and the tongue. 
Figure 7, is joined from 2i-6b to Hi and 
4i,and to 2. 



46 



Description of Plate XXII. 



Qi1i%E will coniinence our description of 
^Xr| this Plate Avith Lady's Habit, as 
^^ ^ laid down by the system. 

Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 12, 13, 14, are tlic 
diagrams of a lady's habit, or rather, four 
different styles produced by four styles of 
skirts. This habit is laid down by the sys- 
tem, but has the numbers placed so that it 
can also be used by the scale. It is drafted 
to the following measure : diameter length- 
wise 41, crosswise 31, shoulder measure 
11|, blade 152, sye measure 10, eliptic 11, 
depth of sye on back 71, natural waist 14, 
full length 15, length of skirts 243 and 28 
respectively, breast 17, waist Hi How 
to draft back : draw back line from to 
245 the, bottom of sye and natural waist 
is marked in the same way as frock coat, 
and the diameter lengthwise applied in the 
same way ; there is h inch added to the 
width of back for making up, as there is 
no seam under arm, and also in conformit}- 
with the principle that ladies' habits or 
basques reciuirc to be cut as wide in back 
and shoulders as possible, we have also 
added k inch to the diameter of sye, as an 
allowance for light or very heavy material ; 
the other points of the back are indicated 
by the numbers on diagram. Figure 12 is 
the forepart, and is laid out by the meas- 
m-eg^ — the shoulder, blade, and sye measure 
being applied in their respective places, 
and the location of shoulder established by 
the line depth of shoulder being placed on 
the centre line, and the application of blade 
measure the same as frock. In the applica- 
tion of the waist measure the fishes should 
be taken out in proportion to waist meas- 



ure to 171, and 17^ ; in half-breast measure 
it should be hollowed a little from 171 to 
17;!; the front is only adapted to close with 
hooks and eyes ; as there are some which 
close with holes and buttons, I of an inch 
extra should be added in such cases. Fig- 
ure 9 is the sleeve ; it is of the tight-fitting 
style, and is drafted Avith the scale by the 
numbers on the diagram or by the system. 
Figures 4, 5, 6, represent four different 
styles of skirt adapted to the same fore- 
part. On Figure 6 is the postilion skirt, 
very narrow at front and sides, and of 
moderate length behind. On Figures 4 
and 5 are two different styles of skirted 
habits or basques, the one rounded off and 
the other pointed. Figure 14 is the train 
or long skirt. We merely represent the 
top or width in this diagram. It consists 
of 23 breadths of cloth ; the line from G 
downwards is the fold of the first breadth, 
which is sloped off 6 inches in front, grad- 
uating to nothing at the seam ; the half 
breadth is placed at the right side ; for 
small sizes 2 breadths may be used instead 
of 23. The length is usuallj' ruled accord- 
ing to fashion, but as a general rule it should 
be 15 inches in front and 24 behind, longer 
than the skirt of a dress. It is plaited on 
a waist-band, which fastens by hooks and 
eyes. 

Figures 1, 2, 9, 12, are the diagrams of 
a bas((ue, which is drafted to the same 
measure as the habit we have described, 
excepting the sye measure, which is h inch 
more, or IO2. This basque closes with 
hooks and eyes down the front, but. can be 
closed with holes and buttons, by an ad- 



Plate Ti . 




Platr XXII.] 



47 



ilitional 3 inch added to front. It can be 
drafted eitliei'bjMlic s.ystem oi- the scale 
corresponding witli the breast measure. In 
the forming of this basque, at waist, the 
measure should be applied across, as to 
171, back included to 171 ; and fishes taken 
out commensurate with the requirements 
of the waist measure ; an allowance of from 
82 to 4 inches should be allowed for seams 
.and making up, and the balance should bo 
taken out as fishes. The spring at waisc 
under arm commences at natural waist, 
or I3 inches above the line, and is about 
4 inches at bottom, as from 22 to GJ ■; but 
a larger amount may be required, and in 
order to meet this emergenc}^ a measure 
ma}" be taken over the prominent part of 



the loins, and an extra allowance as de- 
scribed above applied, and spring given to 
correspond. This basque is marked 11 2 
at waist, but would make up 122 ; the 
collar 12, and sleeve 9, is suited to this 
bastjue. 

On Figures 3, 8, 9, 10, U, are the dia- 
giums of a very neat style of basque, and 
to the same breast measure as the others ; 
it is designed to have a short roll of breast, 
and a step with curved fronts; it may also 
have a flap at waist when required. This 
diagram is laid down to be drafted b}' the 
scale, and the reader will perceive its points 
at a glance, and draft it by the scale cor- 
responding with the breast measure. 



48 



Description of Plate XXIII. 



jj?l,N Figures 1, 2, 3, 5, G, are the tlia- 
|)r| graias or system for cutting a shirt, 
T and is laid down to the following 
measnre: neck 151, sleeve Sis, breast 30, 
waist 33, length of front 35, length of back 
37, length of bosom 8. Figure 1 is the 
sleeve, 2 the back, and IG the front, 5 the 
neck band, 6 the wrist band, 7 the yoke. 
When cnt to measure the lengths should 
be applied by the inch tape, and the other 
points by the scale corresponding with 
the breast measure ; this shirt is cut whole 
at front having a bosom inserted from 23 
to 17, and closes behind with an opening 
marked by a line inside, and marked about 
123 inches down, and closes behind t^ith 
two holes and buttons. How it is joined 
together : the point of yoke 51 and 2 is 
joined to shoulder at 21 and 81, and also 
from % and to and 111 on back, which 
should be fulled on to back, the joining at 
side will be understood at a glance. The 
back arm of sleeve at joins to back at 111 ; 
the point of neckband at joins to 81 on 
yoke ; all the other points of the diagram 
are well defined. 

Figure 4 represents a little pair of knee 
breeches, full tops, which should be plaited 
into a band like Fig. iO, plate XVIII. ; these 
breeches are drafted from the line of con- 
struction by the scale corresponding with 
the seat measure. Figure 9 is a pair of 
Knickerbocker breeches drafted to the fol- 
lowing measure : waist 10, hip 19, side 32, 
leg 22 ; the bottom should be confined in 
\>y a piece of India rul)l)er; the points of 
bottom are drafted by the scale, and the 
other portions by the system as described 
on Figs. 2 and 3, plate XX. 

OnFigures 8 and 10 we have two differ- 
ent kinds of sleeves, drafted on two differ- 
ent principles, and the reader can adopt 



tliat wliich he thinks the best. How to 
draft Figure 8 : Draw construction line 
fi-oni to 323 ; to 20 is elbow ; square the 
line across from 3 to 82 ; to 82 is half the 
sye measure ; divide the sye measure in 
two, to 41 ; then divide the 41 in two, to 
28 ; square up line to 41 at top ; then 
sweep from 41 at top by 2^ to ; draw 
hair line from to 83, divide said line say 
43 ; then square down the line to 3, or i 
the distance from to 83, and sweep from 
41 at top to 82, by 3 ; draw hair line of 
forearm, from 83 to 83 at bottom ; sweep 
from 323 to 82 by ; mark width of cuff 
from 82 to 52 ; add I outside at elbow; and 
form forearm by 71, from 83 to 82 ; and 
outside from by 3,1 to 52, and underside 
as model. 

How TO Draft Sleeve, Figure 10. — 
Draw line from to 2O2 ; to 14 is elbow ; 
square in top measure around your sye, say 
IG2 ; half of Avhich is 81 ; mark down from 

the half of that, or 41 ; square said line 
across to 81, and also the line 14 ; estab- 
lish the centre of sleeve at 41, and square 
it up to top ; then measure the distance 
IVom the middle ot your back pitch when 
joined to bottom of sye, say 1 inch for half 
pitch, and 21 from sidepoint to bottom of 
S3'e, added together, making 31 from 41 to 

1 up at top of sleeve ; then form sleeve- 
head from 1 by 2-41 and 2 to 81 at fore- 
arm to 2, is half the distance to 41 ; from 
front line to 2 at top, is where sleeve-liead 
should touch the line ; draw hair line from 
8l to 81 at bottom ; sweep from 2G2 to 81 
by at top ; mark width of bottom to 53 ; 
mark forearm seam I inside from line, and 
outside at elbow I ; form forearm from 81 
at top, l)y i to 81 at bottom, and backarm 
from 1)}' 1 to 63, and underside as model. 



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8l> 10 



INDEX 



How to iiK'asuie Plato I. 

Figure 1, depth of Proof Centre and of sye 
oil back and natural waist and blade meas- 
ure, with Measuring Squaie. 

Figure 2, diameter lengthwise with tVutre 
Point. 

Figure 3, diameter crosswise. 

Figure I, shoulder, sye, and oliptic measures. 

Figure H, depth of sye on back and natural 
waist, taken with the incli measure. 

Figure (>, breast and waist measure. 

Figure 7, illustrating JNIeasuring S(|uare. 

Figure 8, establishing centre all through. 

How to draft Double-l)reasted Frock Coat and 
how to api)ly the measures. Plates H and HI 

Single-breasted Frock, and how to draft 
Sleeve :uid Skirt, with Dress Coat, and 
showing iiow to use the system without 
Measuring square Plate IV. 

Three styles of New York Walking Coat of 
the Single ;ind Double-breasted form 
^ ' Plate V. 

Single breasted Coat of the Register form, with 
English and New York jackets.. Plate VI. 

New York Surtout witli lapel growing, and 
with lapel sewed on Plate VII. 

Single-breasted Sack Coat, and how to 
draft Plate VIII. 

Two styles of Double-breasted Jacket with a 
Reefer Plate IX. 

Double an<l Single-breasted Sack Over 
Coats Plate X. 



Pages 
■ 6-9 



10-12 

13-15 

16, 17 
18-20 
21, 22 
23 
24 
25, 26 



I'ages 
Description of two styles of c()r|iulenl men's 
C'oats, of the ])Ot-belly and corpulent (all 
around) structures, with two styles of the 
stooping structure with high siioul- 
der Plate XI. 27-30 

Description of Garrick or Inverness Cloak 

with sleeve and without Plate XII. 31 

Descriiition of King William Cloak with 

sleeve Plate XHI. 32 

Description of King William Cloak without 

sleeve Plate XIV. 33 

Description of Halt and Three-CJuarter circu- 
lar Cloaks Plate XV. 34 

Descriiition of [Military Cloak and Coats 

Plates XVI and XVII. 3.J-37 

Description of children's suit dr&sses, cuta- 
way jacket with short breeches, Derby 
jackets, <liagonal blouse, with over-sack. 
.' Plate XVIII. 38, 39 

Description of Vests, ami how to draft 

Plate XIX. 40, 41 

Description of pants, and how to measure and 
draft them, tight fitting, with side stripe, 
with large hips, also small hips. Plate XX. 42, 43 

Description of corpulent men's Pants, two 
styles, with knee breeches, long gaitei's 
and short Plate XXI. 44, 45 

Description of two styles of Lady's Basques 

and Habits Plate XXII. 46, 47 

Description of Shirt system with two styles 
of Breeches, and two styles of Sleeves 
Plate XXIII. 48 



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